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(07/25/02 8:23pm)
Thousands of poets have sung the praises of the rose, but as far as I know, only Robert Louis Stevenson has eulogized the onion in verse. In "To a Gardener," he writes:\nFirst let the onion flourish there,\nRoe among roots, the maiden fair\nWine-scented and poetic soul\nOf the capacious salad bowl.\nMoved by the same sentiments, this week's column pays homage to onions -- sweet onions in particular. The thin translucent wrappings of Vidalia, Maui, purple and other sweet onions shed to reveal fragrant, full-bodied flavor and sweetness for a coins more than ordinary onions. Their cost is worth every penny and their lack of bitter bite will make the most die-hard onion-hater come around.\nMost people are delighted and surprised by the mellow goodness of sweet onions. With sultry summer days upon us, though, heed Stevenson's words and let sweet onions sing in salads of every variety, from tossed, to potato, to pasta. \nIncorporating sweet onions into new and favorite recipes requires little imagination. Buy one, chop it up and start sprinkling. Beyond salads, try adding a few chopped tablespoons to bolster purchased salsa, stir them into broth-based vegetable and chicken soups, or make a quick summer pasta of linguine, sweet onions sauteed in a bit of butter and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.\nSweet onions are found adjacent to ordinary onions in the supermarket. Buy onions that feel hard, free of soft spots and with no trace of sprouting. \nStore them in a cool, dark and airy place. Once peeled, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Sweet onions, like other onions, will keep for weeks without refrigeration, making them handy for added bursts of flavor to a summer's worth of spur-of-the moment cooking.\nMy sweet onion salsa, to paraphrase Samuel Johnson, represents the triumph of hope over experience. One night, I began making a salsa fresca to go with ordinary grilled chicken. I had no tomatoes so I substituted red bell peppers. The bell pepper looked lonely so I chopped more onions. When my fresh lime yielded two droplets, I used balsamic vinegar. And on it went. Even though the finished product looked nothing like tomato salsa, my dining partners paid the ultimate compliment: they ate it all before I could save enough for the next day's lunch.\nGrilling sweet onions is another way to savor their goodness this summer. The smokiness imparted by a stint over open flames is an excellent foil to the onions' natural sugars. If you have the time, grilled onion flowers are worth the 40-minute cooking wait. If time is short, or your energy spent, unadulterated onion slices, slapped onto the grill to accompany burgers or just about anything else, are equally satisfying.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
Sweet, ripe and naked -- that's how most people go for strawberries. Their juicy succulent flesh, curvaceous shape and seductive aroma are irresistible unadorned, but coupled with a warm buttery biscuit and crowned with a dollop of whipped cream? Ambrosia.\n"As American as apple pie" has a fine ring, but by my measure, strawberry shortcake is the true patriotic pastry. It goes hand in hand with sultry summer weather, tasting finest at the end of long, sunny days spent doing little else save sipping tall, cold glasses of fresh-squeezed lemonade.\nThough "shortcake" may arrive at the table with any number of different bases (from angel food cake to pound cake), the real thing should have a rich, slightly sweet, biscuit foundation. The "short" in the name is the hint to its richness -- short describes pastries and cookies that have a high proportion of fat (in this case, butter) to flour. Once prepared, the golden brown-tipped shortcakes are split horizontally (while still warm, or cooled) and piled high with berries and softly whipped cream.\nShortcake is stupefyingly simple to make, foolproof and very good. It is free of the fuss of French pastry and, because its leavening agents are baking soda and baking powder, no kneading or rising is required. \nI am partial to making the process even easier by preparing the shortcakes "drop"-style. This means that the dough's liquid ingredients are increased so that it may be plopped onto baking sheets from a large kitchen spoon (no rolling or cutting out of the dough). \nNow if you want the shortcake but the market strawberries are sad, squishy, or altogether absent, substitute just about any fruit that looks dessert-worthy. Honey-sweet apricots, lush mangoes, and blackberries are all winning substitutions, but you can be as creative or daring as you like.\nAfter you have made these shortcakes and discovered how easy it is, you can toy with the recipe to suit yourself. The shortcake biscuits can be topped by a scant amount of chopped nuts or sliced almonds, or try a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar or very finely minced crystallized ginger. As for the cream, think spices (1/2 teaspoon or so of cinnamon, ground ginger, or cardamom), liqueurs (1 or 2 teaspoons of orange or Amaretto), or fresh herbs and citrus zest (lemon or orange zest and fresh mint, for instance).\nSwedish cream, a mixture of sour cream and heavy whipping cream, is akin to creme fraiche, but much easier to make. If you want extra tang to the dessert, use it in place of the sweetened whipped cream. Of course it is nicest to eat shortcake with people you like, love and admire, so start making some calls.\nStrawberry Sour Creamdrop Shortcakes\n4 cups sliced strawberries \n3 tablespoons granulated sugar\n1 cup all-purpose flour\n3 tablespoons granulated sugar\n1 teaspoon baking powder\n1/4 teaspoon baking soda\n1/4 teaspoon salt\n1/2 stick (1/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into bits\n1/3 cup sour cream \n1/3 cup milk\n1 cup well-chilled heavy whipping cream \n1 and 1/2 tablespoons sugar (more or less to taste) \nUsing a fork, in a medium bowl mash 1 cup strawberries with 3 tablespoons granulated sugar. Stir in remaining berries. Let berries and nectarines stand at room temperature while preparing shortcakes.\nPreheat oven to 425° F and lightly butter a baking sheet. In a large bowl whisk together flour, 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; blend in butter with pastry cutter or fingers until mixture resembles coarse meal. In a small bowl whisk together sour cream and milk; add to flour mixture. Stir mixture until it just forms a soft and sticky dough and drop into 4 mounds onto prepared baking sheet. Gently pat down dough slightly and bake 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer shortcakes to a rack and cool slightly or completely.\nIn a large bowl beat heavy cream and 1 and 1/2 tablespoons sugar with electric beaters until it holds soft peaks. Split shortcakes horizontally with a knife and serve with strawberries and whipped cream (alternatively, use Swedish cream in place of whipped cream). Serves 4.\nSwedish Cream (This may be used in place of sweetened whipped cream)\n3/4 cup heavy whipping cream\n2 tablespoons sugar or honey (more or less to taste)\n1/3 cup sour cream \n2 teaspoons orange or Amaretto liqueur (Optional)\nWhip heavy whipping cream and sugar with an electric beater until it holds soft peaks. Fold in sour cream and liqueur. Serve with shortcakes in place of whipped cream.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
"Mold" and "delicious" are rarely used in the same sentence. In an age of anti-bacterial obsession, blue cheese is the delightful exception. Hardcore blue cheese afficionados think that Swiss, Cheddar and Jack cheeses are for wimps -- if the cheese cannot be smelled from ten feet away, forget it. I belong to this group of diehards, but I nevertheless understand the initial reluctance of some to partake of green and blue-laced dairy products. \nMy own introduction to blue cheese came early. My maternal grandmother, otherwise fun-loving and free-spirited, was rigid about snacks. Each evening she prepared the same snack tray, invariably comprised of crackers (always Wheat Thins or Triscuits), Canadian Cheddar cheese, crudites (carrots, celery, radishes and scallions) and a dip.\nThe dip was my downfall; I double-dipped with abandon and glee. I hijacked it to other rooms whenever I could and, if given the opportunity, I likely would have bathed in it. That is, until I discovered its true identity: blue cheese. The spell was broken. My six-year-old psyche could not handle the moldy revelation. I buckled down and learned to love cheddar.\nIt was fifteen years later, in a crummy dorm room at two in the morning, when a friend finally convinced me to give blue cheese another try. With stale pretzels and a questionable apple as my only alternatives, it was not a hard sell. The cheese in question was an imported Gorgonzola, which my friend guarded with the ferocious intensity of a mother lion. I took a few timid bites. Tangy, peppery, piquant, and salty-sweet -- in the space of a minute, I was a slave to the blues.\nIf you can muster the courage to try it, do. The family of blue cheeses offers multiple types to suit any taste. Some are crumbly, others creamy and a few are downright (and deliciously) gooey. But whether it is American Maytag, English Stilton, French Roquefort, Italian Gorgonzola, Spanish Cabrales or any other of the fifty-plus varieties, the single swift-flowing syllable that names them all denotes culinary riches.\nA little blue cheese goes a long way. This is a plus for portion control. Like most blue cheese fanatics, I like mine best served straight up, with a bit of bread or fruit. Novices may prefer their blues tempered. My blue cheese dressing and mini-bread recipes are mouth-watering moderations. Each is counterbalanced with synchronous flavors that highlight, rather than hide, the earthy taste and mouth-feel of blue cheese. \nPreheat oven to 400° F; butter twelve 1/3-cup muffin cups. In small bowl stir together 2 tablespoons milk and blue cheese until smooth; set aside. Into a large bowl combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. In another small bowl whisk together melted butter, remaining milk and egg. Stir butter mixture and pecans into flour mixture until just combined (do not over-mix). Divide half of batter evenly among muffin cups and top each with about 2 teaspoons blue cheese filling. Spread remaining batter over filling. Bake muffins in middle of oven until golden and a tester comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly; remove from muffin tin. Makes 12 muffins.\nTHE BEST BLUE CHEESE DRESSING\n2/3 cup blue cheese, crumbled\n1/4 cup vegetable oil (mild flavored oil, such as canola)\n1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\n1 teaspoon grated lemon zest\n1 cup light or regular sour cream\n1-2 cloves garlic, minced\nPlace all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Refrigerate at least one hour to meld flavors. Keeps, covered in refrigerator, up to one week.\nSUGGESTED USE: drizzle over green salads (especially with pears, apples or other summer fruit added), chopped vegetable salads, sliced tomatoes, grilled vegetables, bruschetta or baked potatoes; use as a dunk for vegetable sticks, crackers, or chips. \nBLUE CHEESE-PECAN MINI-BREADS\n1 cup milk (preferably whole milk)\n4 ounces blue cheese, room temperature\n1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\n1 tablespoon baking powder\n1 1/2 teaspoons sugar\n1/2 teaspoon salt\n3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted & cooled\n1 large egg\n3/4 cup chopped pecans\nADDITIONAL WAYS TO GET THE BLUES:\n* Fruit (pair with apples, pears, apricots and peaches are sublime)\n* Couscous & Rice (a sprinkle goes a long way)\n* Sandwiches (try it on turkey or roast beef)\n* Burgers (crumble it on while they're hot)\n* Potato salad or pasta salad (stir in, to taste)\n* Salted Nuts (eat them side by side)
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
We live in an age of ever-increasing efficiency, when a five-minute wait at the nearest drive-through is considered four minutes too long.\nYet come summer, the same soul who hits "88 seconds" on the microwave to warm a cup of instant soup (it takes less time to hit one number twice than to punch in two separate numbers) will gladly spend an entire afternoon unearthing a barbecue grill from the garage's damp depths with the singular purpose of cooking a pack of wienies. According to recent statistics, 75 percent of the country will follow suit.\nAt face value, it makes no sense. Cumbersome equipment, high heat, messiness, and unpredictable results -- grilling epitomizes every variety of cooking trips and travails increasingly eschewed by citizens young and old. \nSimple seduction provides a partial explanation. The wonderful smoky scents drifting across the neighborhood on sultry summer nights cannot help but raise the aspirations and appetites of even the most reluctant cook.\nBut the sociologist in me believes that symbolism far outweighs seduction. We grill because of all it represents: freedom from rules, freedom from the mundane, and freedom from nine months of kitchen confines. There is something democratic about it, too. As we become a society segregated by the food we eat as much as by the neighborhoods we live in, the backyard or public park barbecue has become one of the last shared symbols of American culinary community.\nGrilling snobs routinely try to spoil the fun with lists of grilling dos, don'ts, and nevers. Ignore them. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to proclaim that filet mignon tastes better than ground chuck. Having savored more than one charred hot dog, a grilled pizza that was dropped on the floor no less than three times, and countless hamburger patties reminiscent of gas stations, I feel confident asserting that the joy of grilling is in the process as much as, if not more than, the product.\nWhether you are a grilling audience, assistant or head spatula slinger, my "Grilling 101" guidelines will simplify the task. And for a no-fail, knock-your-socks-off alternative to plain chicken or tofu on the grill, try the charmoula recipe.\nThe charmoula (a Moroccan mixture of olive-oil, herbs and lemon juice) takes a mere minute to prepare, but adds immeasurable character to chicken or tofu. You can make it in the morning and then forget about it until you come home to light the grill. The results are aromatically extravagant, just the thing for warm summer days when light, vibrant flavors are needed to revive the spirit. Happy grilling!\nMORROCCAN CHARMOULA CHICKEN OR TOFU SKEWERS\n1/2 cup olive oil\n4 teaspoons ground cumin\n1/2 teaspoon ground coriander \n1 tablespoon paprika \n1 and 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger\n1 teaspoon salt\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\n2 teaspoons sugar\n3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice \n1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves \n1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces \n1 large yellow or green bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces \n1 medium sweet onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks \n1 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch chunks \n1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1 -inch pieces \nHot cooked couscous or rice\nIn a blender combine first 9 ingredients and 1/3 cup cilantro leaves; process until smooth. Place vegetables and chicken in large zip-seal bag; pour charmoula (olive oil mixture) into the bag. Turn bag to coat all pieces; refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.\nPrepare a medium-hot charcoal grill for direct grilling. Thread the marinated chicken and vegetables on skewers, reserving the marinade for basting. Brush grill with oil to prevent sticking. Grill or broil the skewers, rotating skewers carefully, and basting several times until chicken is cooked and vegetables evenly browned (about 8-10 minutes, turning once).\nServe chicken and pepper skewers with couscous or rice and sprinkle with remaining 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro. Serves 4. \nTOFU OPTION: Substitute 1 pound extra firm, well-drained tofu for the chicken. Cut into 1-inch pieces and proceed with recipe above.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
When I first arrived in Bloomington a few years ago, I burst into tears. I contend it was the confluence of a sleepless night, a long day of plane travel marked by multiple delays, and the growing anxiety of starting both a new degree and life in a Midwestern town more than 2,000 miles from my Bay Area home that reduced me to a pathetic puddle. My parents, who claim to know me better than I know myself, maintain that I was merely cranky from hunger.\nWhichever the case, a dinner at the Uptown Cafe and a bag of donut peaches from Kroger saved the day. I had never before seen donut peaches and was sure they were a sign of a bizarre Midwestern produce world. But their snowy, pink-splashed skin, charming squatness (they are pit-free), and quirky name were irresistible. Mom and Dad insisted I buy a whole bag. \nStill, it was with a doubting heart that I took my first bite. Unfortunately, it was wonderful-honey-sweet and dripping with juice. With peaches so good, I knew I would have to stay.\nNow is the time for finding the very same peaches, so be at the ready. Peaches, and their fuzzless nectarine cousins, can be available anytime from April to October, but July through August is their primetime. When making a selection, beware the temptations of the flesh -- the amount of reddish-pink on the peach's skin is determined by the variety, and is not necessarily an indicator of ripeness. The skin and flesh of a fine ripe peach can range from light pinkish-white to reddish-yellow. \nPut your nose to work and choose richly-scented peaches, making sure that they are unblemished and not too hard. They are highly perishable, so resist buying more than you can eat in 4-5 days, which is about how long they will keep. If you cannot resist buying a bushel, peel, pit, slice and freeze them in heavy plastic zipper bags. \nPass over the peaches with tinges of green; this usually means they were picked too early and will retain their cardboard flavor until the very end. Sweetness does not increase after picking, but a slightly ripe peach can be given a boost if placed in a closed paper bag at room temperature for a few days. Adding a banana to the bag will accelerate the process.\nOnce in your clutches, the joys of summer peaches are boundless. Devouring peaches out of hand is always a good use of time on a hot afternoon, but they can also brighten mornings if sliced and tossed on top of a bowl of yogurt or cereal, or diced and mixed into pancake or muffin batter. Come lunch or dinnertime, work them into just about any salad, skewer them with vegetables and chicken atop the grill, or slice them thin and use as a replacement for tomatoes on a chicken, turkey or ham sandwich.\nA simple task that will make you feel like a Food Network celebrity is peeling peaches. It is fine to leave peach skin on in casual dishes, but it should be removed for baking or fancier presentations. Bring a saucepan full of water to a boil, placing a bowl of ice water nearby. Place one peach at a time in the boiling water for about 30-60 seconds, then remove it immediately and plunge into the ice water bath to stop the heat's effects. Slip the skin off with your fingertips or the tip of a paring knife; that's it. Keep the peaches from discoloring with a sprinkle of fresh lime or lemon juice.\nIf you make the cinnamon peach loaves or the salad, do not count on leftovers. Clean tastes and fresh, uncomplicated flavors rule in each recipe, as does ease of preparation, just the thing for high summer.\nCINNAMON-PEACH LOAVES\n1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar \n1/2 cup (1 stick) butter or margarine (not spread)\n2 eggs \n2 1/4 cups pureed peaches (about 1 and 1/2 pounds peaches)\n1 and 1/2 teaspoons vanilla\n2 cups all-purpose flour \n1 and 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon \n1 teaspoon baking soda \n1 teaspoon baking powder \n1/4 teaspoon salt \n1 cup finely chopped pecans \nPreheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter & flour two 9x5 loaf pans or 4 mini-loaf pans. In a large bowl, cream the brown sugar and butter together by hand or with electric mixer. Add eggs; mix thoroughly. Add peach puree and vanilla; mix thoroughly. In a medium bowl combine the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add to peach mixture along with pecans; mix just until combined (do not overmix). Pour into prepared pans and bake in preheated oven 1 hour or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes in pans; remove from pans and cool completely. Makes 2 loaves.\nPIQUANT PEACH & PECAN CHICKEN SALAD\n3 large ripe peaches\n2 and 1/2 cups cooked chicken \n1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion\n1/2 cup (more or less to taste) purchased poppy seed salad dressing\n1 6-ounce bag baby spinach leaves\n2/3 cup chopped, lightly toasted pecans\nCut 2 peaches into 1/3-inch pieces; place in large bowl. Add chicken and onion. Toss with enough dressing to coat. Cover and chill at least 15 minutes or up to all day. Add spinach and pecans to chicken mixture and toss to coat, adding more dressing, if desired. Mound salad on large plate. Cut remaining peach into thin wedges. Garnish salad with peach wedges and serve. Makes 4 servings.\nVEGETARIAN/VEGAN OPTION: 1 pound extra firm tofu may be substituted for the chicken. Dice tofu and drain thoroughly on double-thickness paper towels before using.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
If ever a friend or acquaintance visits the San Francisco Bay Area, particularly the East side of the bay, I tell them that the search for cheap and cheerful meals stop at Lilly's Chinese restaurant on Monterey Avenue in Berkeley. It is the apotheosis of quality: unpretentious service, heaping plates of delicious, fresh food, comfortable seating, and the constant buzz of happy chatter. When I am in Bloomington, I regularly dream of their crisp scallion pancakes, roast duck (a plate that must keep local cardiologists buying Tuscan villas -- but worth every bite), and vegetarian dumplings. But when visiting in the summertime, my visit is incomplete without a bowlful of their noodles.\nLilly's is where I learned the art of noodle eating. A party of one, I would often share a big round table with the mostly Asian lunch crowd. I quickly caught on to the slouch-and-slurp technique, which is both socially acceptable and efficient. When starving, I get the "special soup": a delicious bowlful of shredded pork, preserved mustard greens, sliced garlic and ginger, and thin egg noodles. Otherwise, noodles in a delicate broth with tender greens or delicate wontons, spiked with some chili sauce from the table, is enough to make me giddy with pleasure.\nOn especially lucky visits, I get a bowl of the owner's (Ying's) "yummy noodles." "Yummy noodles" only show up on the specials menu every fortnight or so, and are never exactly the same twice. While the overwhelming majority of Lilly's menu is, and always has been, traditional Chinese, Ying's "yummy noodle" specials have an undeniable Californian flair: a twist of lime here, a handful of corn there, and a sprinkle of mint or basil where you never expected it.\nThank heavens for such twists on the ordinary. Each order of yummy noodles is the product of Ying's fancy, inspired by the fresh produce offerings at Monterey Market just across the street. On one visit, yummy noodles might be a handful of julienned baby vegetables and egg noodles in a gingery broth; the next time, a platter of wide, flat, chow fun noodles spiked with chilies and cilantro; and every once in a while, especially in late summer, it is a chilled noodle salad, with the vibrant flavors of lemon, lime, mint or sesame. \nWhat follows is my own version of late-summer "yummy noodles." At the risk of sounding like a character on "Dawson's Creek," they are "awesome." I think if you try them, you'll agree with my word choice. But if you make it for guests, be prepared for a dilemma:. Should you allow them to think that you have performed an extraordinary culinary feat, or should you let them on to its secret simplicity?
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
We live in an age of high fashion food; hence, the commonplace banana has no more glamour than a nylon nightgown. But glamour can be exhausting, and slowing down to savor the familiar goodness of a banana is one of life's pleasures.\nNext time you try such a simple feat, consider the history held in your hand. The origin of the banana is traced back to the Malaysian jungles of Southeast Asia. Some horticulturists suspect that the banana was the earth's first fruit, but all agree that banana plants (no, contrary to Curious George, there are no banana trees) have been in cultivation since the beginning of recorded history. One of the first records of bananas dates back to Alexander the Great's conquest of India where he first discovered bananas in 327 B.C.\nIn some lands, bananas were considered the principal food. Early travelers and settlers would carry the roots of the plant as they migrated to the Middle East and Africa. From there Portuguese traders carried banana roots to the Canary Islands, where bananas are still grown commercially. When Spanish explorers came to the New World, so did the banana. According to Spanish history, Friar Tomas de Berlanga brought the first banana root stocks to the Western Hemisphere in 1516 on a sailing mission to the Caribbean.\nIt was more than 250 years later before bananas were officially introduced to the American public. At the 1876 Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia, bananas were offered as a novelty refreshment, wrapped in foil and sold for 10 cents. They were so popular, they reportedly sold out in less than an hour. Within a few years, the banana industry was going full force, with year-round delivery from systemized Central American growing fields to almost every American kitchen.\nMost are acquainted with bananas' lunch bag suitability; only a few are aware of their gym bag potential. Significant savings can be made by chucking sports drinks and power bars in favor of bananas. Bananas are equally portable, but all-natural, and ideal for athletic and fitness activities because they replenish carbohydrates, glycogen and body fluids burned during exercise without any fat, cholesterol or sodium.\nThat's the tip of the iceberg. Bananas are also a good source of vitamin C, potassium and dietary fiber. One banana has 15 percent of the vitamin C, 11 percent of the potassium, and 16 percent of the dietary fiber needed each day for good health. Bananas also contain a rich supply of vitamin B6 (20 percent of the Recommended Daily Allowance) which is significant in the synthesis of antibodies in the immune system. Finally, they help in protein metabolism, red blood cell formation and functioning of the central nervous system. At 90 calories and fewer than 15 cents a pop, it is little wonder that bananas are America's No. 1 fruit.\nA crucial issue with bananas is color. Green-tipped bananas are best for cooking, such as in the curry recipe below. The banana will hold its shape in the heated dish. Bananas eaten out of hand or sliced in cereal or salad should be freckled. Bananas are one of the few fruits that ripen best off the plant, so give newly purchased bananas a few days to develop. A smattering of brown freckles on the banana's peel indicate increased ripeness and a subsequently sweeter treat due to the metabolization of starch into sugar. Browner bananas are ideal for baking in breads, cookies, or the muffin recipe listed below.\nAnd now, to the kitchen! \nRecipes\nDOWN ISLAND CHICKEN OR TOFU CURRY\n1 and 1/4 pounds boneless skinless chicken breast (about 4 breasts)\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n1 medium-size onion, very finely chopped\n2 tablespoons curry powder\n1 teaspoon ground ginger\n3/4 teaspoon salt\n1 14-ounce can light (reduced fat) coconut milk\n2 medium bananas, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices\n1 ripe, firm mango, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\n2 ripe, firm kiwi fruits, peeled and cut into large dice\nHot cooked rice or couscous\nCut the chicken into 1-inch pieces. Heat the oil in a large, preferably non-stick, skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook 4 minutes until no longer pink. Add the onion, curry powder, ginger and salt to the skillet; cook and stir 2 minutes longer. Add the coconut milk to skillet; stir and bring to a boil. \nContinue cooking, uncovered, for about 5 minutes to thicken. Add the cut banana, mango and kiwi fruit to the skillet and stir gently to combine. Cook for 1-2 minutes until fruit is heated but still maintains its shape. Serve over hot cooked rice or couscous, if desired. Makes 4 servings.\nTOFU OPTION: Substitute 1 pound extra firm tofu for the chicken. Dice tofu into 1 inch pieces, then drain thoroughly on a two layers of paper towels. Proceed with recipe above.\nLEMONY BANANA MUFFINS\n1 cup all-purpose flour\n3/4 cup yellow corn meal (not corn bread mix)\n1/4 cup granulated sugar\n1 tablespoon baking powder\n1/2 teaspoon salt\ngrated zest from 1 large lemon (about 2 teaspoons)\n3/4 cup mashed ripe banana (about 1 small banana)\n1/2 cup milk\n1/3 cup vegetable oil\n1 egg, slightly beaten with a fork\nOptional lemon glaze:\n3/4 cup powdered sugar\n2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)\nPreheat oven to 425 degrees. Line 12 muffin cups with paper baking cups (or lightly butter cups). In a medium bowl, combine the flour, corn meal, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, banana, milk, oil and egg. Add wet mixture to dry mixture, stirring just until moistened (do not mix too much). \nFill muffin cups 3/4 full. Bake 15-18 minutes or until lightly golden brown; cool. If making the glaze, combine powdered sugar and lemon juice in a small bowl until smooth; brush over the tops of cooled muffins. Makes 12 muffins.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
You can please some of the people all of the time with chili-lime spiked spareribs, and all of the people some of the time with a decent dose of chocolate, but you can please all of the people, all of the time, with a hearty helping of homemade mashed potatoes.\nConsider mashed potatoes a winter anchor, your most faithful standby for any meal -- elegant, down home, and everything in between. They are easier to make than you may have imagined, too -- just boil, mash and eat. \nPerfecting mashed potatoes is another (and highly subjective) story. Some cooks insist on a perfectly smooth mash; others will fight to the quick for a few lumps of texture. Some swear that heated milk is the only way to go; still others vow that it is buttermilk or bust. \nI am Switzerland in mashed potato debates. So long as my mash does not originate from a box of instant flakes, it is all good. I don't mind if my tongue trips over a few lumps, so most of the time I manually mash boiled potatoes with a fork or hand-masher. If ultra-smooth potatoes are the aim, forego the food processor (unless you have a predilection for paste) and invest a few dollars in a "ricer." A potato ricer looks a bit like a giant garlic press and renders velvety potatoes without fail. \nAnother option is "country-style" or "smashed" potatoes -- I prefer calling them "bad mood busters." Some argue that potatoes have anti-depressant properties; this may or may not be true. The bad mood busting I am referring to comes from the process rather than the properties. Drain the potatoes and dump onto a cutting board. Upend the pot and start whacking (visualization is the key). Return the potatoes to the pot and add your fixings. \nHeated milk, a dab of butter, and some salt and pepper tops are my favorite mashed potato fixings, but I am including some other classic combinations. Whichever recipe you choose, toss the cooked potatoes over heat for a few minutes after you drain them to dry any water residue from the pot. Mashed potatoes can sit on top of a warm stove for thirty minutes to an hour without compromising their flavor if you leave the lid slightly askew and stir periodically. \nBasic fixings are but the beginning. Consider mashed potatoes the ideal conduit for your favorite flavors. Those who glory in garlic may choose to add an entire roasted head of the stinky stuff. If using raw garlic, one or two finely minced cloves are plenty. A few cloves can also be added during the final minutes of boiling (to mellow the bite) for an equally scrumptious treat.\nGarlic is the cliched tip of the iceberg of flavor boosters. Cheese lovers will find heaven with a handful of blue, Parmesan, or cheddar cheese; heat seekers have a host of possibilities, from chopped chipotles to chili powder to jalapenos. Let loose your imagination and let the good times, and potatoes, roll.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
There comes a time in most every home cook's life when the thought of setting foot in the kitchen seems abominable. There is no accounting for when the feeling will strike, and it bears no correlation to the home cook's love or loathing of assembling a meal. It can last a few hours, a few days or several weeks and can arrive suddenly, without warning. It can also come slowly, creeping up until even the most mundane tasks, like operating a can opener, seem daunting, dreary or both.\nSeveral solutions to this problem are possible. One is to "hrrumph" loudly and curl up on the sofa with a bowl of popcorn. Falling asleep works well, too, as does complaining until someone else orders a pizza. Or you can stock your cupboard with a few cans and jars of quick-fix meal ingredients. If you were to limit yourself to one such ingredient, make it a jar of salsa.\nIn an age of health food and cooking snottiness, foods from cans and jars rank low on lists of desirable cooking ingredients. Salsa defies such snobbery, delivering a fresh punch of flavor and spice to snacks and suppers. \nBut salsas are more than south-of-the-border concoctions that give tortilla chips a reason to exist. The potent tomato, onion, pepper and chili combination knows no ethnic boundaries and, if you are willing to think outside of the box, is an ideal quick base for a host of streamlined meals when the "no-way-am-I-going-to-cook" mood occurs.\nI discovered salsa's potential versatility by accident after helping a friend pack up and clean out her kitchen before a big move. As we reached the end of our chore, we realized we were famished, too tired to drive to the store, and void of any imagination to create something from her meager but eclectic assortment of packaged foods. Then I remembered a jar of salsa we had packed. We fished it out, boiled and drained the remains of three near-empty pasta boxes, added the salsa and a drizzle of olive oil, and sprinkled it all with the grated vestiges of a nub of Parmesan cheese. It was delicious.\nSince then, I have purposely stowed at least one jar of salsa in my cupboard for cooking angst emergencies. This Moroccan chickpea stew is one of my favorite salsa solutions. It has the double benefit of being scrumptious and simple, ideal during the cool days of fall and freezing nights of winter. Furthermore, it is cheap, and it is good hot, lukewarm or cold. If you are lucky enough to have leftovers, they will taste even better the next day for lunch or dinner. The canned chickpeas in the dish are another excellent pantry staple; they are one of the few vegetables whose flavor and integrity are not compromised by commercial canning.\nThe quick-fix Greek pasta will restore anyone's faith in the kitchen. Making it is a snap. Stir the salsa mixture while the pasta cooks and the whole dish will be ready in less than 15 minutes. By the time you finish eating, you will wonder where your earlier cooking anxiety came from, as well as where it went.\n10-MINUTE MOROCCAN-SPICED CHICKPEA & SPINACH STEW
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
January is here: hooray for it! \nIn January, you do not need to charm or entertain. You do not need to put on a performance. All you have to do is appear, sit in your required seat, listen or not listen, smile or not smile. The sheer relief of January quiet is enough to make anyone turn to pudding.\nAnd turn to pudding is exactly what I do: bread pudding and stirred pudding most often, but even a ready-made cup of pudding when time is short. Elaborate foods may be just the thing when a person is in tip-top fighting form, but in this month of renewal, most people would be much better off with a dish of pudding to revive the spirit.\nAwhile back, when I was feeling low, a friend invited me over to her apartment, plunked me in a chair with a cup of tea and a copy of Mademoiselle magazine and told me to sit still until she was ready for me.\nI sipped and browsed while she created some magic in the kitchen. When she finally called for me, I was presented with a glorious dish of bread pudding and a big spoon. I did not know that I wanted bread pudding, but somehow she knew it was exactly what I needed.\nOnce I felt fit enough to make it myself, I asked her for the recipe. It could not be easier and is worth sharing. It starts with pudding mix, but with a little bit of tinkering is transformed into the most wonderful form of edible therapy. My chocolate intensity pudding with cinnamon whipped cream follows a similar formula and yields equally delicious and consoling results.\nPudding is a simple luxury. Unlike foie gras with blackberry gastrique or egg and basil roulade with yellow tomato coulis, you do not need to "understand" pudding. You just eat it. In a world of uncertainty, the thing about pudding is that you can count on it. There are no nasty surprises, no guesswork. Pudding cheers, fills, comforts and makes you feel, for a few fleeting moments, safe.\nAnd while I would never turn down a world-class meal at a fine restaurant, I would happily reverse my steps on a chilly January evening if someone offered me either of these spoon-wonderful puddings.\nMOCHA BREAD PUDDING
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
For those who have let it lapse, Valentine's Day is a celebration worth reviving. Many people, of course, have less than pleasant memories of the day they were left without a sweetheart, a card or worst of all, chocolate.\nThe trick is to transform Valentine's Day into your own day of merriment. I suggest an intimate party of very good friends, lots of fizzy beverages and an armful of favorite videos. And for the ultimate combination of sensual and celebratory events, make it a fondue party.\nFondue dining began, not as an indulgence, but rather as a way of life. During the frigid Swiss winters, villages and towns were isolated by snow-covered mountain valleys. Fresh food was a scarcity, and people had to rely on locally made foods.\nCheese was one such local and abundant food. During winter months, the cheeses made in the summer became dryer and more unpalatable. Out of necessity came fondue. The name "fondue" is of French derivation and means "to melt" or "to blend." This was exactly what the stale cheese needed to become more digestible. The cheese was melted and blended with local wines and seasonings, then served in an earthenware pot called the caquelon. The transformation was enchanting -- even stale heels of bread tasted delicious when swirled in the creamy cheese sauce.\nFondue gained tremendous popularity in the 1970s, along with bell bottoms and polyester. But unlike other '70s trends, its appeal never waned, and for good reason: Fondue is luxurious, delicious, easy to make, impressive and lots of fun to boot. For a Valentine's Day gathering filled with endless oohs and aahs, it is the only way to go.\nMost cheese fondue begins by heating white wine or milk until hot. Next, shredded cheese is gently stirred in until it melts. All cheese fondue recipes should contain some sort of starch -- preferably potato flour or cornstarch. If you come across a recipe that does not contain starch, you can add some to protect your fondue from separating and curdling.\nFor best results, cheese fondue should be prepared in a pan on the stove (or in the microwave), then transferred to a fondue pot to stay warm while you eat it. If the fondue is too thin, turn up the heat a little and stir rapidly until some of the liquid evaporates. Be careful not to let it boil. If it begins to get too thick while everyone is busy eating, add some more milk or wine, turn up the heat and stir vigorously until the fondue is smooth.\nDespite its Swiss origins, contemporary cheese fondue does not have to contain Swiss cheeses such as gruyere or emmentaler. For variety, incorporate the flavors of other countries into your fondue. For example, use cheddar or pepper jack cheese in place of the cheese blend suggested in the recipes, then add a drizzle of lime juice and some heat (chili powder, jalapenos or chipotle chilies to taste) for a Southwestern flare. You can also substitute 1/4 cup white wine or sherry for part of the milk and crumble in 1/4 cup bleu cheese for a French flavor. Fondue is by nature eccentric: No two are ever alike.\nMost dessert fondues are even simpler than cheese fondues. Chocolate is always a classic, but for a new-fangled twist, try the tiramisu fondue. To feel safe and warm on a cold, wet night, all you need is a few cake or brownie cubes dipped into either of these sweet options.\nFor a gathering as foolproof as the fondue, make a checklist before the party. Several days ahead of time, list and purchase all the ingredients, buy or borrow the needed fondue pots from friends (you will be surprised how many people have one or two to lend), and decide on serving dishes and decorations.\nGet your invitees in on all aspects of the action. For example, delegate the dippers -- have some people bring cake and brownie cubes, others bread and vegetables -- while you steer the fondue assembly. Decorate to your heart's content (from kitschy pink and white hearts and cupids to cozy-sophisticated) or make the decorating part of the party itself.\nGather your friends around a small table to present and serve the fondue, or create a nest on the floor with ample pillows and napkins. Place the fondue or fondues center stage, and start sharing some true love and affection with your assemblage of friends.
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
FOOLPROOF CHEESE FONDUE FOR FRIENDS
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
Tortillas, pita bread, lavash and focaccia may be relative newcomers to Indiana restaurants and supermarket shelves, but in their native lands these flatbreads are as old as civilization itself.\nWhen people first began harvesting grains, they were faced with the same problem many of us have with a cupboard-full of ingredients: how to turn what's on hand into what's for dinner.\nOne solution was to grind the grains into flour, mix it with water and bake. Much like a pancake or crepes, the flatter and thinner the bread, the more quickly and easily it could be cooked. Such breads are the mainstay of diets around the globe and, contrary to what you might think, are relatively easy to make.\nThe key is to find a friend with a food processor or heavy-duty blender. Once you have one in your possession, use the machine's speed to mix and knead the dough. In some cases, yeast is required for flatbread (as in my focaccia recipe below). Use yeast marked as "quick-rising" -- it requires a mere 20-minute rest before reshaping.\nIf you find flatbread making as simple and satisfying as I suspect, you might consider investing in a baking stone. A baking stone is an unglazed clay stone that absorbs and distributes heat evenly, ensuring a crispy, crusty crust (it's ideal for pizzas, too -- even the frozen kind).\nBaking stones can be found at kitchenware stores and houseware departments. Choose the largest that will fit in your oven, but make sure that there will be a two-inch space around the stone to allow heat to circulate. Place the baking stone in a cold oven, and then preheat the oven. Allow at least 25 minutes for the baking stone to heat before baking.\nThis focaccia recipe is Mediterranean in origin and is delicious and nearly foolproof with or without the use of a baking stone. One of the best features about making this or any other breads from scratch -- whether making them for yourself or a crowd of hungry friends -- is that you can control exactly what goes in and what stays out. If you do not like olives, try marinated artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, strips of onion or bell peppers or sliced garlic cloves.\nGive it a try while the weather is still brisk, or wait until spring and partner it with fresh salads. Even the humblest meal will be transformed into a feast when it is served with this wholesome, homemade bread.\nOLIVE & ROSEMARY FOCACCIA\n2 cups all purpose flour\n1 .25-ounce package quick-rising yeast\n1 teaspoon salt\n1/2 teaspoon sugar\n2 tablespoons olive oil\n1/2 cup black olives, pitted and sliced (preferably brine-cured)\n2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried, crumbled
(07/25/02 8:23pm)
When you think of American food, what immediately comes to mind? A thick juicy steak? Buttery corn on the cob? Or perhaps a slice of warm apple pie? \nThese are certainly some all-American favorites, but in recent years new condiments and ingredients have expanded the American palate of flavors as well as American pantries and refrigerators. After all, we are a land of immigrants -- over 250 million strong and still growing -- and just as various nationalities become a part of American life, so do the foods they introduce. \nIn farms across the country, and here in the Midwest in particular, you can now find crops of radicchio, endive and arugula alongside fields of iceberg lettuce; and a dazzling array of specialty foods such as oils, spice pastes, vinegars and cheeses are all now produced domestically. Many of these items, impossible to find just a few years ago, are readily available to all of us at the average supermarket. \nOne such new staple is sesame seed oil. If you have ever had Chinese food, it is more likely than not that you have had sesame oil. It has a subtle yet full flavor that enhances and embellishes a wide range of dishes and sauces.\nPressed from sesame seeds, sesame oil comes in two basic types. One is light in color and flavor and has a deliciously nutty nuance. It is excellent for everything from salad dressings to sautéing. The darker, Asian sesame oil (sometimes labeled as "toasted" or "Oriental" sesame oil) has a much stronger flavor and fragrance and is used as a flavor accent for some Asian dishes. A little goes a long way, so use sparingly.\nSesame oil is good for you, too. It is high in polyunsaturated fats ranking fourth behind safflower, soybean and corn oil. Research shows that sesame seed oil is a potent antioxidant, neutralizing oxygen free radicals and aiding in the maintenance of good cholesterol (HDL) and lowering bad cholesterol (LDL). \nThe following two recipes are especially simple ways to experiment with the flavor of sesame oil. The dipping sauce will make the most of light summer eating. Use it for dipping vegetables, meat and tofu. Make the chicken for your first summer barbecue of the season. The hoisin sauce in the recipe is akin to barbecue sauce. It is inexpensive (less than two dollars per jar) and is typically located with the soy sauce in the supermarket. For a quick vegetarian alternative to chicken, substitute a pound of extra-firm tofu.
(04/05/02 3:37am)
Consider what might be nature's most versatile food and you may very likely come up with honey. All over the world honey is enjoyed for its sweet goodness, whether spread onto flaky biscuits, spooned into teas, whisked into salad dressings or baked into wholesome muffins.\nAbout 14,000 years before sugar packets came on the scene, it was bees who bore the principle burden of bringing sweetness to the table, their buzzing industry recorded on cave walls in Spain and Africa. In ages past, when people craved sugar as an antidote to the prevalence of salt, the very word honey became synonymous with generosity, abundance and honesty.\nThis might seem a little extreme today, but writers could not trumpet honey's cause too loudly. It is alluded to in the Sumerian and Babylonian cuneiform writings, the Hittite code, the sacred writings of India, the Vedas and in the ancient writings of Egypt. Moses famously promised the Israelites "…a land flowing with milk and honey," and Aristotle called honey the nectar of the gods.\nThroughout history, honey has also been valued as a medicine, soothing coughs and sore throats and aiding in the dressing of wounds and burns. Some contemporary research indicates that honey may also be beneficial in endurance athletics, aiding in post-workout recovery.\nBut while the jury is out on specific health benefits of honey, the deliciousness of honey is an open and shut case. The unique flavor of honey is dependent on the flowers from which the nectar has been taken. By moving hives, for example, beekeepers are able to produce the honey of a single flower, allowing a particular flavor to come through. Look for such specialties at Indiana farmer's markets throughout the summer to savor year-round.\nThe flavor of honey goes particularly well with nuts and with spices like ginger and cinnamon. It also has an affinity with lemon. Such combinations of flavors are found throughout the Mediterranean in such treats as baklava and halvah.\nHoney can also play a fermenting role, acting like a yeast to lift and lighten. French "pain d'epices au miel" is an ancient example, as is English gingerbread, which has a sticky texture that originally came from honey, and later molasses, making it a perennial childhood favorite.\nWhile for many honey may be most delightful unadorned, perhaps drizzled on a toasted piece of crusty bread for breakfast or in tea with a dab of butter, it is also an excellent ingredient in savory dishes. Think of honey glazes on Easter hams and honey BBQ sauces for sweet reminders.\nThis week's recipes use honey in ways slightly less familiar but also destined to become favorites. In each, the honey serves as an excellent foil to the savory components of the dish. Little else beyond a simple salad with the noodles and hot rice with the chicken are needed to make a full and satisfying meal fit for a quick weeknight repast.\nQUICK THAI'D UP NOODLES\n1/3 cup rice vinegar (white or cider vinegar may be substituted)\n1/4 cup honey\n2 tablespoons smooth style peanut butter\n2 tablespoons soy sauce\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n1 tablespoon sesame oil\n2 large cloves garlic, minced\n1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper\n1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\n1 package (15 ounces) extra firm tofu, drained, pressed and cut into1/2-inch pieces\n8 ounces fettuccine noodles\n4 ounces snow peas, trimmed and diagonally cut\n1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced on diagonal\n1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
(03/05/02 6:02am)
If this week's arctic blast created a longing for a little spice in your life, consider your kitchen an ideal starting point. Adding a shake and a dash of herbs and spices to your meals is certain to warm the fires within. But if such a foray seems fraught with difficulty, take heart: seasoning with herbs and spices is not as complicated as you might imagine. With a bit of inspiration, imagination, and experimentation, a world of more flavorful food is well within reach.\nTo begin, consider the term "spice." It is often used to mean any aromatic flavoring of vegetable origin, but is something of an all-inclusive term that encompasses not one substance, but four different categories: spices, herbs, aromatic seeds and seasonings/blends.\nSpices are derived from the bark, root, fruit, or berry of perennial plants, such as cinnamon from bark, ginger from roots, nutmeg from the fruit and pepper from the berry. By contrast, herbs are the leaves of annual and perennial low-growing shrubs -- basil, oregano, tarragon, thyme, rosemary and the like.\nAromatic seeds are the seeds of graceful, lacy annual plants -- Anise, Love-in-the-Mist, Caraway, Fennel, Coriander -- and seasonings or blends generally are blends of spices and/or herbs and/or seeds. They are usually intended for one specific purpose such as poultry seasoning, Cajun Blend, Provencal herbs, lemon-dill seafood seasoning or curry powder.\nSo how much is enough? Generally figure a half teaspoon of dried herbs or ground spices for four servings as a good starting point. Too much can ruin the dish, so use restraint to begin, then add more according to your tastes.\nCooked foods such as stews, soups and sauces will taste best if herbs are added during the last hour of cooking (spices can be added earlier). Uncooked foods such as salad dressings, fruits and juices need time for the flavors to "marry," so add herbs and spices as long before serving as possible.\nChoose ground spices for convenience and whole spices for longevity and stronger flavor. Grind or crush whole spices as needed with a mortar and pestle or by whacking with a spoon or can. The latter is advisable for relieving stress and frustration in the process.\nIf you have a few bottles of herbs and spices gathering cupboard cobwebs, check for freshness. If no aroma is detected after crushing, the seasoning needs to be replaced. Store your seasonings in a tightly covered container (a recycled screw top jar) away from moisture and excessive heat. Dampness will cause caking; heat, a loss of aroma. Use clean, dry spoons for measuring.\nWhich spice is right? The one that tastes right for you. Seasoning is not an exact science, but an expressive art -- and you are the artist. Consider buying small amounts of new herbs and spices in bulk at the natural grocery store -- that way you can determine which flavors you prefer for a few pennies of investment. Crush some of it and let it warm in your hand; then sniff and taste it. If it is delicate, you can be bold and adventurous. If it is very strong and pungent, use a light hand the first time you use it.\nBegin your experimentation with a familiar, simple, relatively "basic" recipe and release your inner artist in a simple taste test. For example, a bit of cinnamon in your pancakes, crumbled sage in your cornbread, basil and oregano in your pasta, cumin on your mashed potatoes or ginger in your muffins. To jumpstart your creative juices, give one of these piquant recipes a try.
(02/19/02 7:07am)
When I was little, I used to wonder why Goldilocks did not thank the three bears for letting her steal some of their oatmeal: gray, gummy lumpiness? I would have gladly given up mine.\nIt was not until my teenage years that I learned the pleasures of a good bowl of oatmeal. When made correctly, it is smooth, silky and soothing.\nMade with milk and a dash of cinnamon, then topped with brown sugar, dried cherries and nuts. These days I find myself cozying up to a big bowl on many mornings and admiring the wisdom of those bears. \nIt is no headline that oatmeal is good for you: Oats were a mainstay of Scottish and Irish diets for centuries, and the legendary strength of at least one Celtic god is credited to his inexhaustible appetite for porridge. \nBut it is only recently that scientists have begun to understand how oatmeal conjures its nutritional magic. According to the most recent reports, that big bowl you tuck into on chilly mornings is loaded with disease-fighting anti-oxidants which help lower blood pressure, lower cholesterol levels, and buffer some of the ill effects of the occasional cheeseburger, French fries, and other high-fat treats.\nWhat gives oatmeal its oomph? First, it is made of whole, unrefined grain. The more whole grain you eat, the less vulnerable you are to diabetes, heart disease and some cancers. But even among whole grains, oats are superstars. They contain more soluble fiber than any other grain and are loaded with higher levels of protein, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and vitamin E than either corn or wheat. And while all whole grains contain anti-oxidants, oats have hundreds, including some that are unique.\nOats are a terrific option if you are trying to lose weight, too. In one study, participants ate a 350-calorie breakfast of either oatmeal or sugared cornflakes. Come lunchtime, the porridge group ate about 1/3 fewer calories (citing they were "still full from breakfast") than did the cornflake group, time after time. \nNot everyone takes to oatmeal, even when topped with maple syrup or brown sugar. In 1755, Samuel Johnson defined oats as "a grain which in England is fed to horses, but in Scotland seems to support a people." But oats have come a long way since the days they were used mainly as animal feed. \nBeyond bolstering your bowl of oatmeal with any number of goodies, from dried fruit, to honey, to a sprinkle of mini chocolate chips, you can sneak a cup of oats into some standbys, including muffins, coffee cakes or bread machine recipes. Also consider substituting oats for breadcrumbs in meatball and meatloaf recipes. \nMy favorite? Stir 1 and 1/2 cups oats (any variety) into 1 recipe of pancake batter (homemade or from the box), then top with jam or applesauce. For more inspiration, set your skills to one of the following recipe options. The pancakes will sustain you on the coldest, dreariest of mornings and the cookies, as delicious as they are good for you, will carry you through the afternoon.
(01/23/02 3:58am)
When the winter holidays come to a close and icy streets are bare of twinkling lights and festive adornments, the harried modern person looks at their New Year\'s resolutions to eat light, healthy foods like someone strapped into a dentist's chair, contemplating a triple root canal. \nA commitment to green vegetables is particularly loathsome in mid-January, and it is amazing how many people single out broccoli as one of the most offensive options. \nPoor broccoli; it is rarely given the opportunity to deliver. In homes across the land it is sabotaged by cheezy-squeezy sauce. Restaurants most often boil it until it is good and dead, and then leave it hanging around over low heat until putrid. Or it is found raw and naked on supermarket party platters where, in both flavor and texture, it is akin to a rubber pencil eraser.\nBut what most people do not know about broccoli is enough to fill a book. Even the most humdrum broccoli, strangled in cellophane wrap at the supermarket, can be wonderful if it is fresh and does not get overcooked. \nNot only does broccoli have delicious potential, it ranks as a \"superfood" of sorts (that is, when not cooked until gray). It is loaded with vitamins A and C, folic acid, calcium, fiber and a host of cancer-fighting phytochemicals. Before you buy, look for crisp, moist stalks with dark green or slightly purplish heads. Heads that are yellowing or flowering should be avoided. \nOnce purchased, store the stalks loosely covered in the vegetable bin. Cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces and then lightly steam or quickly stir-fry until crisp-tender to maximize both the flavor and health potential. \nTry the following recipes on people -- yourself included -- who state categorically that they detest broccoli. They will change their minds. I have convinced many fussy eaters of the virtues of broccoli with the garlic and Parmesan recipe, which is why I secretly refer to the dish as "Conversion Broccoli." \nIt is too dull to explain how to boil water to steam broccoli. However, there is a feta cheese spread that is an ambrosial accompaniment to lightly steamed, cooled broccoli crowns. You can vary the proportions to suit your tastes. It is definitely company food, delicious served as an appetizer or for making your New Year's resolution to eat more vegetables sheer pleasure.\nCRISP BROCCOLI with FETA GARLIC SPREAD\n2 8-ounce packages light cream cheese, softened \n1 8-ounce package feta cheese, crumbled \n2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced \n2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, or 2 teaspoons dried dill\nIn a medium bowl, thoroughly blend cream cheese, feta cheese, garlic and dill with an electric mixer until smooth. (alternatively, beat by hand with a wooden spoon, or process in a small food processor). Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Steam broccoli until crisp-tender; cool. Serve broccoli (and other cut vegetables, if desired) with spread. Makes about 2 cups. \nBROCCOLI with GARLIC & PARMESAN CHEESE\n2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil\n2 tablespoons chopped garlic (about 4 large cloves)\n2 teaspoons grated lemon peel\n2 pounds broccoli, stalks peeled and cut widthwise, crowns cut into florets\n1/2 cup chicken broth or water\n1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese \nHeat oil in large skillet over high heat. Add garlic and lemon peel and stir 30 seconds. Add broccoli and toss to coat. Add 1/2 cup broth or water. Cover skillet and cook until broccoli is crisp-tender and water has cooked away, about four minutes. Add cheese and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes four servings.
(12/06/01 5:28am)
Were we are, slipping into winter -- the days growing shorter, the weather cooler and wetter, and the air palpable with holiday excitement. Streets, trees and houses are strung with twinkling lights, buildings are lit with neon, and the world is transformed from ordinary to magical. \nBut just as you are about to sing a few fa-la-las, you catch a glimpse of your exhausted reflection in the rearview mirror. You're pooped, your friends are pooped and the few days before the semester ends might as well be an eternity away for all you have to get done between now and then. \nYou need a good night's rest, a hiatus, a small miracle. \nYou need brownies.\nEveryone has a recipe for the best brownies, and they also have different ideas about what a brownie should be like. Those who are passionate about brownies argue in defense of their favorite. Some prefer cakey brownies; others crave moist and light varieties, while still others like dense and chewy brownies with frosting, nuts and the works. \nI think that a brownie should be able to stand on its own or get all dressed up with equal ease. It should also have a deep chocolate flavor, a texture that won't crumble in your mouth (actually, a little roof-sticking is good) and a thin crust on top. \nNow here's my dirty secret: my favorite brownies come straight from the box. Of all the brownie recipes I have tried over the years, it is original-style fudge brownies from a mix that consistently get my vote for perfection. Moreover, the ease of preparation affords me the opportunity to crank up the flavor and excitement with a variety of simple stir-ins, flavor enhancers and toppings. \nHow about double chocolate brownies with cinnamon icing? Maybe rocky road pecan brownies suit your fancy? Or perhaps plumped up dried apricots or cranberries, stirred in for a tart-sweet contrast, whets your appetite.\nI have provided some of my favorite options, but don't be afraid to trawl through your cupboards for your own inspiration. \nFor die-hard chocolate purists, opt for the flavor enhancers. Replace oil with melted butter and add a dose of vanilla extract; it will make a profound difference. Or replace the water in the recipe with liqueur to produce a wildly luxurious treat. Or consider an addition of semi-sweet chocolate chunks or morsels to the batter to create the epitome of brownie goodness. \nGo ahead, try one or several options this weekend. Invite a few friends over and surround yourselves with a symphony of candles, seasonal music and old movies. You will amaze yourselves with your brownie creations, leaving you wondering whether your accounting textbook should be abandoned in favor of the Fannie Farmer Baking Book \nAluminum baking pans (including the $1 foil tins at the supermarket) are my choice for brownie baking. There are too many contentious variables with other materials. Use the 8 x 8 inch square size for a thick, bakery-style brownie. Follow the baking time exactly, checking at the minimum baking time first. Insert a toothpick two inches form the pan's edge. If it comes out barely moist, they're ready.\nThe same brownies that provide you with extensive comfort and sustenance also make ideal gifts. If you have more friends, relatives and good intentions than time and money, purchase a bundle of square foil baking pans, an armful of brownie mixes, and an assortment of stir-ins to create easy presents everyone will love. An added bonus is that when the streets are packed, the malls are jammed and the nearest parking space is somewhere west of the North Pole, you will be cozy in your kitchen, licking the bowl.\nIf there is a more perfect partner for brownies than milk, I do not know it. A cold glass is always good, but to ward off the chills, try a steaming mug full of honey-vanilla steamer. When you heat the milk and blend it in a blender for a minute, you get the same frothy effect as expensive steamed milk from the local coffee bar. Be sure to do it one cup at a time: overfilling the blender with hot liquid will create a vacuum, forcing a winter wonderland milk explosion on your walls. Festive, but messy. Students, start your ovens.
(12/06/01 5:00am)
Were we are, slipping into winter -- the days growing shorter, the weather cooler and wetter, and the air palpable with holiday excitement. Streets, trees and houses are strung with twinkling lights, buildings are lit with neon, and the world is transformed from ordinary to magical. \nBut just as you are about to sing a few fa-la-las, you catch a glimpse of your exhausted reflection in the rearview mirror. You're pooped, your friends are pooped and the few days before the semester ends might as well be an eternity away for all you have to get done between now and then. \nYou need a good night's rest, a hiatus, a small miracle. \nYou need brownies.\nEveryone has a recipe for the best brownies, and they also have different ideas about what a brownie should be like. Those who are passionate about brownies argue in defense of their favorite. Some prefer cakey brownies; others crave moist and light varieties, while still others like dense and chewy brownies with frosting, nuts and the works. \nI think that a brownie should be able to stand on its own or get all dressed up with equal ease. It should also have a deep chocolate flavor, a texture that won't crumble in your mouth (actually, a little roof-sticking is good) and a thin crust on top. \nNow here's my dirty secret: my favorite brownies come straight from the box. Of all the brownie recipes I have tried over the years, it is original-style fudge brownies from a mix that consistently get my vote for perfection. Moreover, the ease of preparation affords me the opportunity to crank up the flavor and excitement with a variety of simple stir-ins, flavor enhancers and toppings. \nHow about double chocolate brownies with cinnamon icing? Maybe rocky road pecan brownies suit your fancy? Or perhaps plumped up dried apricots or cranberries, stirred in for a tart-sweet contrast, whets your appetite.\nI have provided some of my favorite options, but don't be afraid to trawl through your cupboards for your own inspiration. \nFor die-hard chocolate purists, opt for the flavor enhancers. Replace oil with melted butter and add a dose of vanilla extract; it will make a profound difference. Or replace the water in the recipe with liqueur to produce a wildly luxurious treat. Or consider an addition of semi-sweet chocolate chunks or morsels to the batter to create the epitome of brownie goodness. \nGo ahead, try one or several options this weekend. Invite a few friends over and surround yourselves with a symphony of candles, seasonal music and old movies. You will amaze yourselves with your brownie creations, leaving you wondering whether your accounting textbook should be abandoned in favor of the Fannie Farmer Baking Book \nAluminum baking pans (including the $1 foil tins at the supermarket) are my choice for brownie baking. There are too many contentious variables with other materials. Use the 8 x 8 inch square size for a thick, bakery-style brownie. Follow the baking time exactly, checking at the minimum baking time first. Insert a toothpick two inches form the pan's edge. If it comes out barely moist, they're ready.\nThe same brownies that provide you with extensive comfort and sustenance also make ideal gifts. If you have more friends, relatives and good intentions than time and money, purchase a bundle of square foil baking pans, an armful of brownie mixes, and an assortment of stir-ins to create easy presents everyone will love. An added bonus is that when the streets are packed, the malls are jammed and the nearest parking space is somewhere west of the North Pole, you will be cozy in your kitchen, licking the bowl.\nIf there is a more perfect partner for brownies than milk, I do not know it. A cold glass is always good, but to ward off the chills, try a steaming mug full of honey-vanilla steamer. When you heat the milk and blend it in a blender for a minute, you get the same frothy effect as expensive steamed milk from the local coffee bar. Be sure to do it one cup at a time: overfilling the blender with hot liquid will create a vacuum, forcing a winter wonderland milk explosion on your walls. Festive, but messy. Students, start your ovens.