Grilling a perennial favorite

We live in an age of ever-increasing efficiency, when a five-minute wait at the nearest drive-through is considered four minutes too long.\nYet come summer, the same soul who hits "88 seconds" on the microwave to warm a cup of instant soup (it takes less time to hit one number twice than to punch in two separate numbers) will gladly spend an entire afternoon unearthing a barbecue grill from the garage's damp depths with the singular purpose of cooking a pack of wienies. According to recent statistics, 75 percent of the country will follow suit.\nAt face value, it makes no sense. Cumbersome equipment, high heat, messiness, and unpredictable results -- grilling epitomizes every variety of cooking trips and travails increasingly eschewed by citizens young and old. \nSimple seduction provides a partial explanation. The wonderful smoky scents drifting across the neighborhood on sultry summer nights cannot help but raise the aspirations and appetites of even the most reluctant cook.\nBut the sociologist in me believes that symbolism far outweighs seduction. We grill because of all it represents: freedom from rules, freedom from the mundane, and freedom from nine months of kitchen confines. There is something democratic about it, too. As we become a society segregated by the food we eat as much as by the neighborhoods we live in, the backyard or public park barbecue has become one of the last shared symbols of American culinary community.\nGrilling snobs routinely try to spoil the fun with lists of grilling dos, don'ts, and nevers. Ignore them. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to proclaim that filet mignon tastes better than ground chuck. Having savored more than one charred hot dog, a grilled pizza that was dropped on the floor no less than three times, and countless hamburger patties reminiscent of gas stations, I feel confident asserting that the joy of grilling is in the process as much as, if not more than, the product.\nWhether you are a grilling audience, assistant or head spatula slinger, my "Grilling 101" guidelines will simplify the task. And for a no-fail, knock-your-socks-off alternative to plain chicken or tofu on the grill, try the charmoula recipe.\nThe charmoula (a Moroccan mixture of olive-oil, herbs and lemon juice) takes a mere minute to prepare, but adds immeasurable character to chicken or tofu. You can make it in the morning and then forget about it until you come home to light the grill. The results are aromatically extravagant, just the thing for warm summer days when light, vibrant flavors are needed to revive the spirit. Happy grilling!\nMORROCCAN CHARMOULA CHICKEN OR TOFU SKEWERS\n1/2 cup olive oil\n4 teaspoons ground cumin\n1/2 teaspoon ground coriander \n1 tablespoon paprika \n1 and 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger\n1 teaspoon salt\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\n2 teaspoons sugar\n3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice \n1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves \n1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces \n1 large yellow or green bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces \n1 medium sweet onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks \n1 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch chunks \n1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1 -inch pieces \nHot cooked couscous or rice\nIn a blender combine first 9 ingredients and 1/3 cup cilantro leaves; process until smooth. Place vegetables and chicken in large zip-seal bag; pour charmoula (olive oil mixture) into the bag. Turn bag to coat all pieces; refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.\nPrepare a medium-hot charcoal grill for direct grilling. Thread the marinated chicken and vegetables on skewers, reserving the marinade for basting. Brush grill with oil to prevent sticking. Grill or broil the skewers, rotating skewers carefully, and basting several times until chicken is cooked and vegetables evenly browned (about 8-10 minutes, turning once).\nServe chicken and pepper skewers with couscous or rice and sprinkle with remaining 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro. Serves 4. \nTOFU OPTION: Substitute 1 pound extra firm, well-drained tofu for the chicken. Cut into 1-inch pieces and proceed with recipe above.