Blue cheese: Moldy oldy but goody

"Mold" and "delicious" are rarely used in the same sentence. In an age of anti-bacterial obsession, blue cheese is the delightful exception. Hardcore blue cheese afficionados think that Swiss, Cheddar and Jack cheeses are for wimps -- if the cheese cannot be smelled from ten feet away, forget it. I belong to this group of diehards, but I nevertheless understand the initial reluctance of some to partake of green and blue-laced dairy products. \nMy own introduction to blue cheese came early. My maternal grandmother, otherwise fun-loving and free-spirited, was rigid about snacks. Each evening she prepared the same snack tray, invariably comprised of crackers (always Wheat Thins or Triscuits), Canadian Cheddar cheese, crudites (carrots, celery, radishes and scallions) and a dip.\nThe dip was my downfall; I double-dipped with abandon and glee. I hijacked it to other rooms whenever I could and, if given the opportunity, I likely would have bathed in it. That is, until I discovered its true identity: blue cheese. The spell was broken. My six-year-old psyche could not handle the moldy revelation. I buckled down and learned to love cheddar.\nIt was fifteen years later, in a crummy dorm room at two in the morning, when a friend finally convinced me to give blue cheese another try. With stale pretzels and a questionable apple as my only alternatives, it was not a hard sell. The cheese in question was an imported Gorgonzola, which my friend guarded with the ferocious intensity of a mother lion. I took a few timid bites. Tangy, peppery, piquant, and salty-sweet -- in the space of a minute, I was a slave to the blues.\nIf you can muster the courage to try it, do. The family of blue cheeses offers multiple types to suit any taste. Some are crumbly, others creamy and a few are downright (and deliciously) gooey. But whether it is American Maytag, English Stilton, French Roquefort, Italian Gorgonzola, Spanish Cabrales or any other of the fifty-plus varieties, the single swift-flowing syllable that names them all denotes culinary riches.\nA little blue cheese goes a long way. This is a plus for portion control. Like most blue cheese fanatics, I like mine best served straight up, with a bit of bread or fruit. Novices may prefer their blues tempered. My blue cheese dressing and mini-bread recipes are mouth-watering moderations. Each is counterbalanced with synchronous flavors that highlight, rather than hide, the earthy taste and mouth-feel of blue cheese. \nPreheat oven to 400° F; butter twelve 1/3-cup muffin cups. In small bowl stir together 2 tablespoons milk and blue cheese until smooth; set aside. Into a large bowl combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. In another small bowl whisk together melted butter, remaining milk and egg. Stir butter mixture and pecans into flour mixture until just combined (do not over-mix). Divide half of batter evenly among muffin cups and top each with about 2 teaspoons blue cheese filling. Spread remaining batter over filling. Bake muffins in middle of oven until golden and a tester comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly; remove from muffin tin. Makes 12 muffins.\nTHE BEST BLUE CHEESE DRESSING\n2/3 cup blue cheese, crumbled\n1/4 cup vegetable oil (mild flavored oil, such as canola)\n1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\n1 teaspoon grated lemon zest\n1 cup light or regular sour cream\n1-2 cloves garlic, minced\nPlace all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Refrigerate at least one hour to meld flavors. Keeps, covered in refrigerator, up to one week.\nSUGGESTED USE: drizzle over green salads (especially with pears, apples or other summer fruit added), chopped vegetable salads, sliced tomatoes, grilled vegetables, bruschetta or baked potatoes; use as a dunk for vegetable sticks, crackers, or chips. \nBLUE CHEESE-PECAN MINI-BREADS\n1 cup milk (preferably whole milk)\n4 ounces blue cheese, room temperature\n1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\n1 tablespoon baking powder\n1 1/2 teaspoons sugar\n1/2 teaspoon salt\n3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted & cooled\n1 large egg\n3/4 cup chopped pecans\nADDITIONAL WAYS TO GET THE BLUES:\n* Fruit (pair with apples, pears, apricots and peaches are sublime)\n* Couscous & Rice (a sprinkle goes a long way)\n* Sandwiches (try it on turkey or roast beef)\n* Burgers (crumble it on while they're hot)\n* Potato salad or pasta salad (stir in, to taste)\n* Salted Nuts (eat them side by side)