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(04/08/08 2:18am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – “‘The water,’ by Feist.” “‘Bridge over troubled water,’ by Simon and Garfunkel.” “‘Black water,’ by the Doobie Brothers.”\n My friend Maureen and I were playing our favorite game – trying to find all of the songs with a given word in the title – on the banks of Lake Como this weekend. We were watching sailboats bobbing in the clear water from the shores of Bellagio, a small town not far from where George Clooney has his summer home. The sun was shining down on us and we could hear the distant shouts of fishermen as they pulled in the day’s catch. Maureen and I had the same simultaneous thought: Isn’t this wonderful?\nIf Italy has taught me one thing this year, it is that sometimes you just have to slow down and enjoy life’s little moments of happiness. It is easy to get caught up in the frenzy of touring – never-ending lists of sights to see and museums to visit. I have witnessed a wealth of marvelous things in this country, but my favorite memories from this year have been times when I was simply relaxing and soaking up the company of my friends and family.\nTwo weeks ago, my parents and little brother came for a visit. We did the typical whirlwind tour of the three tourist hot spots: Venice, Florence and Rome. It was exciting to watch them experience the rich culture of Italy for the first time. But the most fun we had together was when, in an effort to find the Christian catacombs on the ancient Appian Way, we got hopelessly lost in the Roman countryside. As we stood surrounded by a flock of sheep, we all had a good laugh at the ridiculous situation.\nThe Italians are an extremely laid back people. I have never seen an Italian walk quickly, and they all take at least four hours to finish their meals. I am positive that this accounts for their extremely high life expectancy, which according to the CIA’s World Factbook, is 20 percent above the world average. They seem to know how to live. \nAs the weather warms up, make time to stop and relax. Take your books outside and study on a blanket in the Arboretum. Spend a day with your friends in the park or just lounging on the banks of the Jordan River. The memories that you make doing simple activities with people you love are those that will last a lifetime.
(04/01/08 2:26am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – I know you have been tempted to do it. Security guards are pacing back and forth, signs are posted everywhere. But you paid 6.50 Euro to get in and your fingers are just itching to get your money’s worth. Can you resist?\nEvery year, thousands of tourists flood into the world’s famous art galleries; only a lucky few leave with a forbidden photo of the works inside. They get a rush from ignoring the “no photo” signs, cheating the system and not paying a whopping 50 cents for a postcard in the museum gift shop. They show off their photographic loot as if they made off with the piece itself. And my question to you outlandish lawbreakers is, why?\nPeople bragging about their illicit pictures of Michelangelo’s David and the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel usually justify their actions by quipping, “Well, I didn’t use a flash” (which is widely recognized as damaging to delicate paint layers and the patina on sculptures). Or my favorite, “Other people were doing it, too.”\nTourists don’t stop to think of other reasons why photography inside galleries might be “vietato” or “verboten” before they click the shutter. Sure, the major reason is most likely that the museum would like to make a profit from the sale of their merchandise. But, where does that revenue go?\nYour 50 cent purchase of a photo – much better than one you could take with your silly consumer-level camera hidden under your jacket – goes to buy new pieces and restore old ones. Tourists for years to come will be able to enjoy the museum and all of its artistic treasures. It seems like a pretty good cause to me.\nSo, the next time you find yourself staring directly into the eyes of Ms. Mona Lisa, or some equally stunning piece, do Da Vinci a favor. Turn your camera off and walk over to the gift shop. You’ll have a fantastic, cheap souvenir, and will have done your part to preserve our cultural heritage.
(03/18/08 12:13am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – For most of us, 10 years is about half of the time we have spent on Earth. Imagine spending every minute of 10 years in one of the world’s art museums. No eating, no sleeping. Just painting and sculpting every minute of every day. Can we talk about art fatigue?\nThe International Council of Museums was created in 1946 to unify all world museums with the common goals of conservation and communication. The council currently has 24,000 members in 150 countries. That means, if you spent approximately four hours in each museum (a proper estimate for true appreciation), you would spend 96,000 hours wandering the galleries of the world. That equals out to 4,000 days or more than 10 years.\nPersonally, I am an art museum fanatic. I love getting lost in a maze of hallways and corridors, each room holding a new treasure. But for 10 years? I figure that I only have about 70 left, and I am not willing to give up 1/7 of that time cruising the Louvre and Museum of Modern Art. So how do I see the world’s artistic highlights in a more limited amount of time? It is a perplexing question, but luckily, the 24,000 members of International Council of Museum already have an answer: the traveling exhibition.\nDuring my spring break, my best friend Emma and I travelled around the major tourist hotspots of Italy. We can safely mark the Peggy Guggenheim collection in Venice, the Capitoline museums in Rome and the Accademia gallery in Florence off of our to-do lists. It was an awesome experience to see some of the world’s most prestigious museums. Though Emma doesn’t share the same background or love for art, she seemed to enjoy the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.\nAfter I dropped her off in the airport in Venice, I headed out for a day by myself in the local Accademia. The Venetian Renaissance has always been of particular interest to me, and I consider Giorgione and Tintoretto some of my personal favorites. I was in awe of these artists’ masterpieces, but what really got me excited was the temporary Titian exhibit.\nMany of the master’s most famous works had been pulled from museums all over the world. I read all of the small placards which gave the piece’s original home. Many hailed from Austria, Germany, France and even the U.S. I was struck with the thought that if all of these works had not been collected in one small place, I may have never had the opportunity to see them all. Unfortunately, the chances of me going to Austria in the future are a bit slim.\nIt was also fascinating to see all of Titian’s masterpieces side by side. Most museums can only afford to hold on to a few of his pieces at one time. By looking at them all in the same room, his style is very apparent and even more striking.\nThere are certain steps that you can take at home to see some of the world’s most brilliant pieces. The Chicago Art Institute and even the Indianapolis Museum of Art have wonderful travelling exhibitions and their schedules can be found on their Web sites. If you don’t have an extra 10 years to spare, I suggest you check it out.
(03/04/08 5:26am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – Spring break is three days away. If you are one of the few who stuck around to finish your classes this week, the nice weather and visions of faraway places are probably making it difficult to focus. A good portion of the student body will head to the beaches of Mexico and the Caribbean. If cerveza and “Girls Gone Wild” is your thing, you have probably been baking in a tanning bed for weeks.\nOther students will hop a plane and spend a whirlwind week backpacking through Europe. You adventurous lot have been poring over Frommer’s travel guides since the holidays. While backpacking is a great way to mark several countries off of your “to do” list, it can be somewhat disappointing to not see all of the attractions that each city has to offer. When you only have a limited amount of time, every minute is precious.\nI recommend that you take the time to prioritize the sights which are most important to you. Do your research. You may not have time to see Rome, Paris, London AND Amsterdam. There are certain cities which are not as popular with tourists (less popular means shorter lines) that can give you a good feel for the country you are visiting. The Italian city of Verona is one such location.\nEach town in Italy has its own personality. Regionally specific food, art and habits make the country feel like it is actually made up of several smaller countries. Verona is unique in that it combines major elements of several Italian cities but retains its own native charm.\nThe city is known for two major reasons: It is the setting for Shakespeare’s “Romeo and Juliet,” and it is home to the most well-preserved Roman amphitheater. When I visited on Saturday, I was surprised by how much the city resembled other places I have seen.\nThe Roman amphitheater is not quite as large the Colosseum in Rome, but it’s in much better shape. The numerous public works from the age of the Empire give the city the nickname of “Little Rome.”\nThe city was also under the rule of the Venetian kingdom for many centuries. Therefore, the streets and houses are designed in a fashion similar to those in Venice. The only thing missing is the canals.\nThe landscape, dotted with green hills and cyprus trees, is reminiscent of the Tuscan countryside surrounding Florence. Even the food is a wonderful mixture of cuisine from various Italian subcultures. I had a marvelous mixed plate at lunch, which featured lasagna from the southern regions and “bakala,” a salted cod stew, typical of coastal areas.\nThe largest tourist attraction in Verona was “Juliet’s” balcony (though Romeo and Juliet didn’t exist, they were based on a real-life Italian couple), where, according to popular myth, she made her famous “Romeo, O Romeo” speech. But even in this popular romantic spot, the lines were short. Though Verona may not be at the top of your list of things to see on your week-long sprint through Europe, it is a wonderful way to experience a vast spread of true Italian culture in a short amount of time. \nWhether you spend next week wasting away in Margaritaville or exploring the wonders of the world, have a fun, safe spring break!
(02/26/08 5:41am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – \n I am what The Beatles call a “day tripper.” On weekends, I buy a one-way ticket to a city in Italy and spend the entire day seeing it. It is the most practical and economical way to travel. In the words of John, Paul, George and Ringo: “It took me so long to find out, but I found out.”\nThis weekend, I saw two cities in a day. I took an early train to Florence to see a few new things, including the Boboli Gardens and the Bargello Museum. The galleries hold the statue of David by Donatello, which is just as masterful but not as big as the famous Michelangelo’s David. After that, I hopped on another train to Assisi, where I explored the Renaissance streets and gaped at Giotto’s fresco cycle in the Basilica of San Francesco (Saint Francis of Assisi). I was proud of my efficiency and astounded by the variety of art that I saw in less than 24 hours. \nSpring break is coming, and I know a lot of you may be coming to Europe. When you find yourself in a situation where travel is key, there are several things you can do to cut costs and maximize your time.\n1. Wake up early. It may be hard to tear yourself out of bed at 5 a.m., but when you consider that a train ride from Bologna to Florence is about two hours long, you will be in town right before everything opens and the crowds start lining up. I actually walked across an empty Ponte Vecchio this weekend. For those of you who have had the privilege of seeing it, you know it’s impossible to cross at the height of the day without stiff-arming your way through the crowd.\n2. Get yourself a good travel bag. Everyone can benefit from a close-fitting, tight-fastening, easy-to-carry bag. You will need to cart around essentials to survive your travels. There is nothing worse than juggling all your stuff while trying to soak up your surroundings. Also, I wouldn’t recommend a backpack. Pickpockets love them. You won’t. \n3. Buy a one-way ticket. It may be scary to not have a return plan, but I’ve wasted a lot of Euro on tickets, getting caught up in a museum and missing my train. When you arrive at your destination, check departure times. But wait until you’re ready to go to buy your return ticket. You’ll feel like you have more freedom if you don’t have a specific train to catch.\n4. Pack a lunch. Sure, you will want to taste the local cuisine, but restaurants are expensive and it’s easy to find locally-produced foods. Buy a few items and throw them in your bag. If you really want to see what the local eateries have to offer, have dinner. By this point, your energy will be waning and will benefit from a long meal. \n5. Go all day. Just think – this might be your last opportunity to ever experience that town. I know that I will probably never see Assisi again. Though the town was heavenly, by the time I arrived, I was exhausted. My travel buddy wanted to hike approximately 10 miles uphill to the Basilica. I refused on the grounds that I wanted to live to see another day, and we took a bus. \nOn the train back to Bologna, I felt like the statue of a weary crusader situated near the Basilica of San Francesco, meant to be St. Francis. I could barely feel my legs, but I was proud of my perseverance and happy with all the experiences I managed to fit into one day. Now, if I could just get that Beatles song out of my head.
(02/19/08 2:08am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – Paris. New York. London. Milan. These four cities are known as fashion capitals of the world. Each hosts a “fashion week” every year to showcase the talents of the nation’s brightest designers. People all over the world model their wardrobes based on the wearable art that comes out of these cities. This weekend, I took advantage of the mere two-hour train ride to Milan to update my own style.\nInstead of enhancing my closet with a new pair of shoes or the latest Prada clutch (like I could afford it), I added several cultural experiences and important artwork to my mental repertoire. I was actually surprised by the lack of good shopping and the wealth of amazing art, for which the city is little-known.\nThe Galleria is an architectural neoclassical masterpiece, which was intended to house the major shops of the city. I was more impressed by the building itself and with a performance by a talented group of young street performers in the center of the Galleria than with the poor collection of high-end stores. I expected to find a central location containing all of the consumer attractions and was greatly disappointed. Milan is the second largest city in Italy, and the stores were scattered all over the map. I was never able to find the shoe store I was searching for, though I hiked all the way across town. The gallery on Via Farini in my own city of Bologna offers more convenient shopping.\nThe Galleria was a beautiful structure, complete with a domed glass ceiling and frescoed panels. Upon exiting the Galleria, shoppers are greeted by the great white Duomo of Milan.\nThe church is a triumph of Gothic architecture and seems to pierce the sky with its numerous spires. It is the second-largest church in Italy. It is the most famous church of this period in Italy and arguably one of the most magnificent churches built during its time in all of Europe.\nAfter walking down the dark aisles of the church and gazing slack-jawed at the stained glass windows, I continued my tour of the city with a visit to “La Scala.” This theater, which is recognized as the best opera house in the world, does not seem impressive from its exterior facade. But the rows of boxes ornately decorated with gilded panels and an enormous chandelier hanging over the 2000 seats give the interior an appearance of luxury. The theater’s museum is also worth a visit. It holds a collection of old instruments, costumes and portraits of the most famous historical figures of opera.\nThe most breathtaking museum in Milan, however, was the Brera Pinacoteca. This hidden gem holds pieces such as Andrea Mantegna’s “Dead Christ” and “The Kiss” by Francesco Hayez. Masterpieces by artists including Benini, Titian and Picasso greeted me in every room.\nI would highly recommend a trip to Milan, if you ever find yourself in Italy. Though I never found my shoes, in a city known for Prada, Gucci and Armani, it was a wonderful surprise to find Da Vinci and Puccini. There will always be Paris and London in the spring!
(02/12/08 5:14am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – A friend recently asked me to what American figure I would relate Italian politician and corporate mogul Silvio Berlusconi. My response was that if Bill Gates and Dick Cheney were to have a torrid affair, Berlusconi would be their love child. At the time, I thought myself pretty clever for putting Gates’ personal wealth and the general public sentiment about Cheney – cold, tyrannical, shoots people that get in his way, etc. – together. I later realized that if living overseas has taught me one thing, it is that European nations, especially Italy, just cannot be compared to the U.S. It is a different world over here.\nI have spent 2.5 percent of my life thus far (that’s right, journalism majors can do math) fully submerged in a different country and culture. My attitude about the U.S. has changed dramatically. The adage, “you never know what you’ve got until it’s gone,” has never rung more true. The things you learn, not about your study-abroad country but about your own home and self while overseas, make it worthwhile.\nSince my arrival, I have taken an interest in politics. A year ago, I never would have made a reference to political figures. Ever. I am an artsy girl. I barely knew a thing about Cheney and thought Berlusconi was a type of pasta. Unfortunately for me, Italians love discussing politics – before and after class, on the train and in the pub. They never seem to tire of Bush-bashing and discussing their own miserable state of affairs. So, in an effort to appear intelligent about world affairs, I got involved. I started reading more than just the arts section of The New York Times. The more I learned, however, the more I realized that the Italians will talk until they turn blue, but rarely take action to solve their internal problems.\nI witnessed a “protest” about a week ago. About 40 grungy, dreadlocked college students stood in the main square, waving banners and shouting on loudspeakers about the severe lack of work in Italy. Twenty minutes later, the piazza was empty except for scattered beer bottles and forgotten picket signs. It was a disheartening sight.\nThe bureaucracy in this country is also something to behold. A couple days ago, for the second time, I sat in line to give my fingerprints to the police station – a necessary part of the application process for my “permesso di soggiorno.” The “permesso,” if I may make another comparison to America to help you understand, is like a temporary green card. It allows me to live in Italy for an extended period of time and the freedom to travel in and out of the country like an Italian citizen. I applied for this document and paid almost 200 euros upon my arrival in August and I have yet to see results. The government doesn’t know I am here.\nItalian MTV features a program called “Pugni in Tasca,” which literally translates to “Fists in Pocket.” It is a forum in which young people sit around and discuss the issues of the day and possible solutions, without the fear of violence or ridicule from their peers. I find it ironic that the double meaning of the English expression, “to sit around with your hands in your pockets” is lost in translation. Might as well call it “Thumb up butt.”\nI have stated in previous columns that Italy is currently in an enormous economic, political and social depression. If it weren’t for the still sturdy column of international tourism, I don’t know what would hold this country up. The worst part is that no one seems to realize it. Those who do – the Italians – don’t seem to be doing much to improve the situation.\nLiving abroad is not easy. It is hard to watch this once proud and beautiful country go to waste. I miss the comfort and organization of home. There are days between trips to Rome and Florence when I don’t feel like getting out of bed. Don’t let the smiling students on the travel brochures fool you. Though study abroad is most of the time exciting and fun, some days are downright depressing. Strangely enough, I know that when this trip is over, I will treasure these days almost more than late nights dancing with my friends or trips to exotic places. It is the days spent in the dumps that really make me love and appreciate what’s waiting for me back home.
(02/05/08 4:26am)
BOLOGNA, Italy –\nSuper Bowl Sunday is a timeless American tradition. Friends and family come together around the bowl of seven-layer dip and HD-TV to cheer for their favorite team. Even for the non-sports lovers, the half-time show and inventive commercials provide entertainment enough. While I certainly missed the rivalry and especially the food of the American holiday, I spent my Sunday in a unique way this year. I urge you to get off the couch once in your lifetime to experience a different sort of feast.\nThe theme to this year’s carnival season in Venice was “Sensation” – a celebration of the five senses. I saw the beautiful colors of costumes and masks. I could hear drums and the eerie sounds of pipe instruments coming from a Romanian parade through the center of town. I could smell the ocean breeze, and felt it sting my face through my own mask. I tasted sweet powdered sugar as the traditional fried dough of Carnevale literally melted in my mouth. And above all, I felt a strange connection with history as I strolled through the ancient streets and took part in centuries-old traditions. It was truly a smorgasbord for the senses.\nIt is difficult to describe the feeling in the Venetian air during the celebration. Never in my life have I experienced such bonhomie and freedom. There are no rules during Carnevale. Many people donned elaborate masks and exquisite lacey costumes, but others roamed in street clothes. I saw couples dancing and kissing. Grown men and women were jumping up and down in the streets in excitement.\nThe most irksome trait of Venice is that the city is literally overrun with tourists. The locals have moved out to make room for shops and restaurants that cater to the needs of international visitors. While the city still retains its charm – which makes it so attractive to outsiders – it always seemed to me that it had fallen far from its proud past. Naturally, during Carnevale, the streets and canals alike are packed with tourists. However, I thought that during this season, everyone was a Venetian. German, Japanese, American, French and Russian visitors all donned masks to take part in traditions too strong to be corrupted by foreign influence. Seeing this was refreshing.\nThe world is full of celebrations like the one I saw this weekend. Brazil holds the biggest Carnival celebration in the world. Islands in the Caribbean, countries in Eastern Europe and even Spain, Great Britain and The Netherlands have their own traditions to welcome the season of Lent. Mardi Gras in New Orleans is a party that is a little closer to home. Even if you can’t make it to Venice, I strongly recommend that you spend at least one weekend of your life lost in the revelry of this fantastic celebration. I’m sure the Giants would understand.
(01/29/08 4:08am)
OLOGNA, Italy – Otzi the Iceman makes his home in the small Province of Bolzano-Bozen, high in the Dolomites mountain range. With more than 6,000 years under his rotting leather belt, he was recognized as the oldest known Italian citizen when he was excavated from a glacier in 1991. He is Europe’s oldest and best preserved natural human mummy.\nOtzi, who also goes by the names Similaun Man or Frozen Fritz, has seen a lot in his time. He was around when the Romans ruled most of the known world and he was chilling (quite literally) while his descendents were painting, writing, sculpting and inventing through the height of the Renaissance. More recently, however, Otzi saw the fall of the Italian government, which hasn’t seen stability since fascism during World War II. He has also had to sadly stand by as his nation’s monuments crumbled from too much tourist traffic and not enough conservation. A general depression has swept over his country, and it hasn’t gone unnoticed.\nIn December, the New York Times reported on a recent study that found “Italians, despite their claim to have mastered the art of living, say they are the least happy people in Western Europe.” The article was written before power was wrested from Prime Minister Romano Prodi last week. It also barely makes mention of the current crisis in Naples – trash is piling up in the streets because the landfills are full, and the army has been called in to control the Mafia and the angry mobs.\nNeedless to say, the Italians have fallen far from the times of the Roman Empire and Renaissance. Their country is a mess, and they seem to be doing little to bring themselves out of their depression. \nAfter my recent trip to Bolzano-Bozen to see the famed iceman, I saw that it was no small wonder that he now resides in the pristine little town. The city is the capital of an autonomous region, and though located in Italy and subject to some federal laws, it is largely self-governed. It is an exception to the Italian depression and a model for what the country could look like if the Italians could just get their act together.\nThe streets were the cleanest I have seen since my arrival. I felt as if I had entered another country. There was little traffic, and the whole town seemed quiet and peaceful. All of the churches and local castles were in marvelous condition, and Otzi himself was kept in an iced vault with no less than four security cameras pointed in his direction. The town even had a lovely fresh foods market, shopping district and recreation complex. \nIt was frustrating for me to walk around this little town because it became apparent that the Italians are indeed capable of pulling themselves out of their funk. If the people of Bolzano can do it, why can’t the rest of Italy? It may be a question that even old Otzi can’t answer.
(01/22/08 1:07am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – This weekend, I am going to miss one of my favorite Bloomington events – the PRIDE Film Festival at the Buskirk-Chumley Theater. The weekend allows the local community, gay, straight and questioning, to come together to discuss issues and new ideas and throw one sweet dance party. The film series showcases the talents of independent filmmakers and documents the struggles and triumphs of queer culture. I don’t pretend to be an expert in the field of film studies, but there is something about an independent film, especially a short, that I find irresistible. \nOn Saturday, a friend and I attended a screening at the Future Film Festival. This week-long event has been held for the past 10 years here in Bologna and is considered “the most significant Italian event dedicated to animation and special effects,” according to its Web site. Rather than local discussions about gay pride and acceptance, this festival sparks international conversations on new technologies and techniques used in movies (especially cartoons) and videogames. \nThe showing that I attended was a collection of 14 short films. They came from all over the globe and were shown in English, Italian, French, German and Korean. Some were silent. I couldn’t understand the dialogue in all of the films, but it was amazing that in every one, I managed to follow the plot. Some were funny, more were dark. Each had a unique style of animation. What I found most interesting, however, was the sense of national identity in each piece. A different sort of pride. \nOn the walk back from the theater, my friend commented on the shapes of the noses in both of the animations by French filmmakers. Though the artistic styles were completely different, the characters in both sported the typical long, pointed French nose. In the short, “Pib and Pog,” the characters were done in a claymation style (like that used in “Wallace and Gromit”) and had dry senses of humor created by a Brit, of course. The one Italian film took place in Sicily and had a distinct “Godfather” feel. It was as if each filmmaker was lightly perpetuating his own cultural stereotypes. \nWhat I love most about an independent film is that it tends to be more like a work of art. You can sense the presence of the filmmaker in the work. At PRIDE, you may feel more sharply the pain of a transgender individual struggling to fit in with the rest of society, because it is shown through his or her eyes. At the Future Film Festival, I was able to see just how much of a person’s identity is poured into each piece – to the extent of the artist’s national origins. \nI hope that you choose to go to the PRIDE festival this weekend. It is a wonderful experience for gay and straight students alike, and an opportunity to truly see an idea or issue as someone else sees it.
(01/15/08 4:13am)
BOLOGNA, Italy –\nCars probably didn’t drive across the stage at the Vienna premiere of Christoph Willibald Gluck’s opera “Orphee et Eurydice.” I am also willing to bet the audience would have been shocked if the parts of the firemen were played by young men in red patent leather bodysuits. This is most likely because the classic French opera, which is based upon an ancient Greek tale, debuted in 1762.\nThis weekend, the opera was performed at the Teatro Comunale in Bologna, Italy. I attended the Sunday matinee, and was delighted by the director’s ability to combine the historical aspects of Greek mythology and the music of 18th century Austria, with a modern storyline and striking special effects. This blending of the past with the present is something that I find best executed in opera.\nThe Teatro Comunale was a beautiful setting for the piece. It has a reputation as one of the finest houses in Italy, and was the first major opera venue to be constructed with public funds. It was inaugurated in 1763 with a performance of “Il trionfo di Clelia” – an opera also composed by Gluck, as a special request for the occasion. Since that time, the theater has housed several important performances within its gilded walls. More than 1,000 seats are situated on the ground level, in four levels of stalls and in a balcony.\nThis was my first experience in a professional opera house, so I purchased tickets for the balcony, which I assumed would be like the balcony seats in the IU Musical Arts Center – a bit far from the stage, but with a great bird’s-eye-view of the action. For students, the balcony tickets only cost five euro. Not bad for a night at the opera. Upon reaching my “seat,” however, I realized that it might have been worth the three extra euro to sit on a lower level. A word to the wise: When visiting the opera houses of Italy, note that when you purchase “seats” in the balcony, you may end up standing for an entire two-hour performance. I was provided with a stiff wooden bench to sit on during scene changes and intermission, but in order to see anything, I was forced to stand on my “seat.” It was an uncomfortable way to watch the show, but at least I was already standing for the five-minute ovation at the end of the performance.\n The three main roles of Orpheus, Eurydice and Orpheus’ guide were sung magnificently. The tragic love story of a bride who dies on her wedding day, and a desperate groom who descends to hell to bring her back to the world of the living was wonderfully wrought. In one of the first scenes, the couple is dragged by firemen from a flipped car and Orpheus realizes his bride is dead. His mournful cries sent chills down my spine. The accompanying music made my heart ache for the bereft lover.\n I was most impressed, however, by the intricate special effects that were used throughout the production. The stage was characterized by six square panels that sunk and rose to the main level with eerie smoke wisping from the depths of the represented hell. On several occasions, a hearse was driven across the stage to add to the deathly atmosphere, and the chorus was dressed, from their heads to their feet, in shabby white grave clothes.\n An excellent opera transcends the boundaries of time. Certainly, Gluck’s original production would not have involved a car crash or Orpheus’ demonic guide dressed as Orpheus from “The Matrix.” (Coincidence or irony? I’m not certain.) However, the modern interpretation told the ancient Greek tragedy to the tune of 18th-century Austria to absolute perfection.
(01/08/08 3:48pm)
BOLOGNA, Italy –\nWatching someone’s face while they witness something spectacular for the first time is almost as exciting as seeing it the first time yourself.\n I spent my holidays traveling through Italy with my boyfriend, Nick, who flew in from the U.S. to spend three weeks with me. I took him to see the mosaics in Ravenna, the view from the Piazza Michelangelo in Florence, and the gondolas in Venice. Though I had seen these places before, I discovered new experiences with each trip. In Florence, I finally made it to the Uffizi Gallery (though it was worth the two-hour wait in the cold, I would recommend a reservation to anyone who is considering a trip), and we even climbed the 460-something stairs to the top of Brunelleschi’s dome. The part I enjoyed the most during my second visit to these three influential cities, however, was watching Nick’s eyes light up when he saw the wonders of Italian art and architecture and watching him experience a foreign culture for the first time.\n The newness of Italy had begun to wear off for me. I still faced challenges every day and still, at times, marvelled at the raw beauty of this country. But I was becoming accustomed to the habits of the people and becoming numb to the art around me. Nothing could have prepared me for the shock of our trip to Rome.\n The sense of history and opulence the city contains hit me the moment we stepped off the train. Our hotel room was literally across the street from the Vatican museums – we could watch the entrance from our window. We spent an entire day touring the museums, which resemble warehouses of the world’s treasures. The Vatican City is, within itself, a sovereign state and it is protected by this status in times of war. It is a safe zone for the remains of Western civilization. We wandered through corridor upon corridor, piled high with classical statues, and gazed up at the famous Renaissance ceiling frescos of the Sistine Chapel.\n We watched the sunset in St. Peter’s Square, where I felt about two inches tall. In one night, we walked around the center of the city and came upon the Ara Pacis (altar to peace) of Roman Emperor Augustus, the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain,which you might recognize from a famous scene in Federico Fellini’s classic film “La Dolce Vita.” We spent yet another day strolling in the luxurious gardens of the Villa Borgese, taking in its extensive Renaissance painting and sculpture collection.\n We planned only for a three-day visit to Rome, which we expected would be an adequate amount of time to see the main attractions. We were severely mistaken. We barely had time to walk around the Colosseum and up the Via Sacra. The ruins close at sundown and we missed them by mere minutes. Allow yourself at least a week if you want to truly experience the wonders of Rome. My best friend and family will be coming to visit me in March. I can’t wait to bring them to Rome and watch them discover the fantastic city, which in only three days renewed my awe and enthusiasm for this gorgeous country.
(12/04/07 1:59am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – You might have just finished a five-page thesis for your topics class. Or maybe you have spent countless hours preparing for your graphic design portfolio review or re-learning reagents and reviewing old synthesis problems for organic chemistry. Regardless of your academic concentration, the last few weeks have probably been hell for you. Now you have what the IU administration mockingly calls “dead week” to relax before the real fun of finals week begins. Do you want to know what I have been doing for the past two weeks? Christmas shopping and sleeping. \nNow, before you seal the envelope of that hate mail, hear me out. I, too, am usually a ticking time bomb of stress this time of year. Art history professors love to give lengthy thesis assignments, and every single journalism professor makes you write an “in-depth feature” that is much longer and involves more sources than are really necessary – not to mention the mountain of reading that I usually have to catch up on at the end of the semester for all of my classes. This year, however, I find myself in the disorganized, relaxed atmosphere of the Italian academic system. And I hate it. \n When I say disorganized, I mean that in every sense of the word. You might get upset if a professor doesn’t post his PowerPoint presentations online. Here, there is no class registration (anyone can come and go from classes as they please). There is no homework or papers, just recommended reading. The exams aren’t even written, you sit down to a conversation with your professor and they ask you questions about what you know. We don’t have OneStart or OnCourse, or any of those little things that, admittedly, make our lives as IU students much easier. \nClasses here are usually two to three hours long, with the professors spending a majority of their time reading directly from the recommended textbook. There are usually small built-in cigarette and coffee breaks, but students are free to leave the lesson whenever they desire. Attendance is never mandatory. \nLibraries are hardly ever open, and when you can manage to find one with decent hours (10 a.m. to 6 p.m. is the best I have seen), finding a spot to study is difficult, because books usually cannot be taken from the library, and all of the tables are crammed with students. So, studying usually is just done on a very self-disciplined basis. You read the book, you go to class – every once in a while – to take some notes, and I like to do a little supplemental research on Wikipedia when I don’t understand something my professor tells me. My courses are in a foreign language, after all.\nDoes this sound like a little slice of heaven to you? I realize that it might, but just try to imagine what it feels like to know that your grade depends solely on a few 15-minute conversations between you and your professors, where they could literally ask you anything about their subjects. Study guides? Forget about it. The professors also do not have to report to any higher authority when giving you a grade, therefore, you can receive a low score just because the professor doesn’t like your shirt. There is no rubric or standardized method of distributing grades.\nThis is a new kind of stress. I have come to embrace the never-ending “to do” list of the American academic system, because it is exactly that – you always know what you are supposed to do. The stress of completing projects or raising our GPAs or getting into graduate school keeps us motivated to keep working. We always know what the next step will be. We have schedules. And we are organized. \nSo this finals week, stop and be thankful that even though you are stressed, you know exactly what to be worried about. Remember me across the pond. I might be napping, but I am just waiting for the most nail-biting round of final exams in my academic career.
(11/29/07 5:00am)
On Oct. 30, Daft Punk played the last U.S. show of its Alive 2007 tour outside of Las Vegas. A few weeks before the performance, I envisioned the setup: the French duo's trademark pyramid -- think Egyptians with LCD technology supplied by aliens -- looming in the Nevada desert like a misplaced mountain, hoards of faithful followers showing their reverence with closed fists and gyrating hips. \nFor weeks I crunched gas mileage figures and entertained the daft idea of driving across the country to be part of the crowd of DP devotees. After hearing Alive 2007 the album -- Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo's attempt to put their multi-sensorial live show on an audio disc -- I don't regret my decision to stay home any less. \nWith an army of computers and more switches and dials than a spaceship, the boys from France take listeners on an eardrum-melting tour of their musical catalogue. Most of the hits are there, from "Robot Rock" to "Around the World" to the epic "One More Time," but they're put together into an incestuous mix of pure electronica sex. \nLike good lovers, the duo knows how to pace: For almost 90 minutes, Bangalter and de Homem-Christo build tension to the breaking point before slowing things down and leaving the audience begging for more. To take the edge off after a sweltering remix of "Too Long" and "Steam Machine" that'll leave you hot and bothered, the duo decelerates to the pace of a snail on acid and a robotic voice intones, "We gon' move." After the disappointment of Human After All -- Daft Punk's attempt to put existentialist messages into its music -- this is welcome shallowness. \nDaft Punk begins the Australian leg of Alive 2007 on Dec. 13. I'm selling all my stuff and buying a plane ticket. Who's coming with me?
(11/27/07 2:04am)
BOLOGNA, Italy– Venice is one of those cities that you must see before you die. I spent last weekend in the “city of bridges,” and if I die tomorrow, I will have a smile on my face. It was truly one of the best trips of my life. \n My friend, Maureen, and I decided that we would like to do our Christmas shopping in Venice this year. We wanted to see the canals and enjoy the crisp, fall weather. I had seen pictures and read descriptions of the city before and I knew that it would be quaint. My friend, on the other hand, had visited the city before, and wanted to be with me when I saw my first gondola. The girl should be made a saint. \nI literally dragged her into every Venetian mask shop on the peninsula. The city is known for these fantastical faces that the citizens and tourists from all over the world purchase and wear at the Carnivale in February – a Mardi Gras celebration without all of the flashing. There were at least 10 shops on each street where Venetians vended these papier-mache, hand-painted miniature masterpieces. Words fail to describe the intricate details that made these masks wearable art. \nWe also hopped a ferry to the island of Murano where the world-famous Venetian glass is produced. We wandered around the island, and actually got to witness a glassblower at work. The little man had been working in his studio for 50 years, since he was 11 years old. He showed us how to make tiny little horses out of a hot blob of molten glass. \nA word to the wise-traveler when planning a voyage to Venice – learn a few words of Italian. Maureen and I are still years away from fluency, but our rudimentary knowledge was greatly appreciated by the locals. We acted as translators on multiple occasions for large groups of American tourists, and we were well received by the Italians. Also, don’t buy a map. The best way to truly discover a city is just to walk around blindly. \nOur first day in Venice was capped by a delicious seafood dinner in a quiet little corner restaurant. Obviously it is favored by all kinds of tourists, as CNN anchor Anderson Cooper was sitting at the table right behind ours! We spent the night in Hotel Adua on the main street in town, and woke up the next morning to a gondola race on the Grand Canal. We visited the Palazzo del Doge, Piazza San Marco and gazed out at San Giorgio Maggiore from the Bridge of Sighs. \nThe city has a rich mercantile, political and artistic history. I believe that it was one of the first true cities of the Renaissance, based upon its intellectual atmosphere created by trade with eastern cultures. Traces of the Byzantine style can be seen in the architecture and in the famous Venetian school of painting. In one room of the Palazzo del Doge, I had to resist the urge to lie on the floor to better soak in Tintoretto’s ornate ceiling frescos. \nBy the time Maureen and I caught our train back to Bologna on Sunday evening, we could barely walk. I had finally broken in my new Italian leather boots, and I didn’t think I could ever move again. We came to the conclusion that the best trips end in a feeling of complete exhaustion and contentment.
(11/13/07 2:06am)
BOLOGNA, Italy –You never realize how American you are until you leave the country. \nThe National Anthem has never stirred deep feelings of patriotism and pride in me. I could live without baseball games and Mom’s hot apple pie. I waited all of my life to get out of the U.S. I wanted to see exotic places, eat new foods and experience the art and history of faraway lands, because I felt that home was lacking a bit in the culture department. \nSpending three months isolated from the true “American culture” – which I took for granted for so many years – has made me come to recognize and appreciate what it means to be an American.\nDon’t get me wrong. I am not getting all sentimental about the stars and stripes. I have done my fair share of explaining that I wasn’t old enough to vote when Bush was elected, therefore he isn’t my fault. We also can learn a thing or two from the Europeans about how to appreciate and preserve the heritage that we have. But, especially as the holidays approach, I am starting to get a little homesick for the little things that make me American. \nI have been busy this week stringing popcorn to hang on my Christmas tree, blasting Mariah Carey tunes and making hot apple cider. \nThis weekend, a few of my American friends and I partook in the good ol’ Midwestern tradition of a progressive dinner. For those of you who don’t know what I am talking about, that is where you go to at least five different houses and you eat for at least eight solid hours. Each respective homeowner (or apartment-renter) makes a course in the meal. We had a wonderful time and spent hours discussing the latest Hollywood scandals and singing trashy pop songs. God bless America. \nI am really going to miss Thanksgiving this year, with my family and all the fixings. When you sit down this year to a huge turkey and mashed potatoes and green beans and stuffing and pumpkin pie (... OK, I have to stop because I am drooling on my keyboard), think for a minute about what it really means to be a citizen of the U.S. of A, and appreciate our traditions and customs, however silly and seemingly insignificant they may be.
(11/06/07 1:04am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – I have managed to avoid a lot of addictions since I have arrived in Italy. \nI haven’t turned into an alcoholic, despite all of the marvelous wines and the rock-bottom prices of liquor. I’ve stayed away from cigarettes – I believe the local kids start smoking as soon as they are potty-trained. And most difficult of all, I haven’t even gone overboard with shoe shopping. This weekend, however, I picked up a habit that I think is going to be awfully hard to break: day trips to Florence. \nDon’t laugh. This is a serious disease. Like heroin and all the other hard drugs your high school health teacher warned you about, you only have to try it once and then you are hooked. I had my first Florentine experience this weekend and it was spectacular. \nThree of my friends and I spent a meager 10 euros for a round-trip train ticket and spent the entire afternoon touring cathedrals and lounging in the Piazza della Signoria. I was stunned by the reality of standing inches away from statues that I had seen in textbooks for years. Seeing the details of a hand or in a face made the works come alive and made me understand why these artists of the Renaissance were considered masters. \nAfterwards, we strolled across the Ponte Vecchio to look at all of the stores selling hand-made jewelry and climbed to the Piazzale Michelangelo where I witnessed the most breathtaking sunset of my young life. \nIt was an amazing day, but as we descended back down toward the city, I panicked. We didn’t even see the Uffizi Galleria! What about the Medici Chapel? My God, we hadn’t even seen a fraction of what Florence had to offer! \nOn the train ride back to Bologna, all that my friends and I could talk about was our upcoming schedules and the possibility of another trip in the near future. I know the Uffizi will take at least one full day, and I refuse to leave Italy without some Botticelli under my belt. \nBologna is a wonderful city. It is very raw and feels very “modern” Italian. The nightlife is great. The tourists are minimal. There is even a “college town” atmosphere that kind of reminds me of Bloomington, except with 300 Mother Bear’s restaurants. You couldn’t pay me to live anywhere else in Italy. But sometimes, I just need a Florentine fix.
(10/23/07 12:17am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – I have always thought that the winter season and a good sense of fashion were mutually exclusive until I moved here. When the temperature drops, my wardrobe usually consists of leggings under ripped jeans and an assortment of my boyfriend’s sweatshirts. Style takes a backseat to the need to stay toasty. \nWhen I moved to Italy, I noticed right away that what defines “American style” is typically comfort. Before purchasing a bag, I first have to think of its ergonomics. Is the strap long enough? Are there pockets a-plenty? After I decide whether or not it is practical, I consider the color and design. My jeans have to fit just right. Shoes have to be at least comfortable enough to trek to the bars and back. \nThe Italians, however, take their clothes as seriously as they take their pasta. Upon my arrival, my flip-flops went into the trash and I pushed the T-shirts into the back of my armoire. Euro-style is defined by loud statements, and my bland Midwestern attire just wasn’t making the grade. \nThis weekend, my friend and I went to the Montagnola outdoor clothing market in downtown Bologna to sample some of the finest examples of Italian winter fashion. It is indeed possible to stay warm and look good at the same time. For instance, ponchos are coming back into style. Don’t think of the kind that also require a sombrero, but of lovely flowing folds of fabric. They come in a variety of colors, are very cozy to wrap up in and still offer a peek of the cute sweater you are wearing underneath. If you are like me and must wear a parka, choose one with a fur (fake, of course) detail. Fur is huge here in Italy, and it adds a touch of class to an otherwise bland winter coat. Tights can be worn under a long sweater for a night out. Note the emphasis on “long.” Tights should never double as pants. Ever. High boots are also a wonderful winter footwear option. You can still wear heels, but they remain somewhat sensible. \n I became a little sad, sifting through piles of green velvet boots and tights in every color of the rainbow. My friend and I realized that if we attempt to import our new “Euro” sense of style to the States, we will probably be looked upon as freaks. \n Do me a favor. Break this terrible habit of dressing like frumps in the Midwest before I get back. I have a great new poncho that I really want to wear.
(10/16/07 1:40am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – When I hear people railing against modern art and its lack of aesthetic value, I usually get upset. Most try to compare abstract works to the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance or to the brilliant colorations and light patterns of the impressionists. This causes them to draw the conclusion that modern art is “worse.” This simply cannot be done. With each new period of art comes new techniques and, more importantly, new theories.\nWhile I would definitely not consider myself an expert on modern art theory, I have formed some of my own ideas about its principles. For example, I feel that modern pieces do not place a heavy focus on aesthetic value. Works are no longer created to be “pretty,” they are created to express ideas. The “art” no longer lies in the actual finished product, but rather, the artist’s creative concept. The physical manifestation of the idea is what the artist presents.\nModern art is also very egocentric. Pieces can no longer be interpreted on the surface, where the average viewer can appreciate their value. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the artist’s purpose to fully appreciate each work. It is oftentimes very difficult to enter the minds of the artists, and truly see their visions, so it can be said that modern pieces are created for the artist, not for the audience. \nI have little tolerance for modern art exhibits where explanations and information about the pieces are not provided. This weekend, I went to the Museo dell’Arte Moderna di Bologna, and found such a display. I looked for a brochure that would give me some insight into the pieces that I was viewing, but found none. As I wandered around the museum, I couldn’t help thinking how utterly weird most of the pieces were. There was a video clip, titled “Bouncing Balls,” that was just a shot of a nude man from behind who was bent over, and swaying so that his testicles were bouncing off of his legs. \nNow, how am I supposed to be able to appreciate that, without some explanation? What in the world was going on in this artist’s head? I began to sympathize with the museum patrons who simply laugh and brush the artist off as a nutjob. I believe that the artist had a purpose, but without any information about his thought process or that of any of the other artists, the entire museum seemed like an over-sexed freak show. Every piece seemed to be created solely for shock value. I was severely disappointed. \nI never believe the “artsy types,” when they draw conclusions about modern art pieces, simply upon viewing them. I hate it when I have to hear someone wax poetic about the “apparent reference to the women’s suffrage movement of the early 1900s as depicted by this lone man’s swinging testes,” or some other similar crap. One would have to be a mind reader to interpret this piece – and all modern art. \nIt irritates me when people do not stop and open their minds to the revolutionary ideas of today’s artists. However, the artists seem to not want the audience to share in their concepts. They close the significance of their pieces when they do not explain their intentions, and they then wonder why the general public brushes their works off as ridiculous and meaningless. It is a paradox that may only be solved by the next major artistic movement.
(10/09/07 1:18am)
BOLOGNA, Italy – The easiest way to cross the chaotic streets here is to just close your eyes and run.\nGenerally speaking, Italians are the most laid-back people I have ever met. In contrast to the typical American, they never seem to be in a hurry and nothing seems to stress them out. They know that everything will work out in the end. \nAll of the shops close around 1 p.m. and open two hours later so the shop owners can have a nice long lunch. I have not once received proper change while I have been here, because it is much easier to round up to one euro rather than count out 85 cents. And, I still don’t have the Internet in my apartment, because it takes at least a month for the provider to keep an appointment. \nNeedless to say, it has been difficult to retrain my American mind-set to be more relaxed. This weekend, I decided to take a trip Italian-style: completely spontaneous and completely relaxed.\nMy friend and I met for an hour Friday morning to look up train departure times. We picked a destination, Padua, looked for an affordable hotel and ran to the station. We didn’t run fast enough, so we missed the train. At this point in America, I would have had a small stroke. But, instead of freaking out, we decided to get lunch and discuss our options. \nWe realized there was no reason why we could not catch the next train, or even another train to Venice, Naples or Rome. It was such a liberating feeling, realizing we had three free days, enough money to catch a train and pay for a hotel and all of Italy flashing on a train schedule in front of us. \nWe decided to catch the next train to Padua. We got there, bought a map and checked into our hotel. We wandered around the city for a while, and saw, in my opinion, one of the wonders of the art world: Giotto’s fresco cycle in the Scrovegni Chapel. He completed this enormous revolutionary work in only two years. We also strolled through the oldest botanical gardens in Europe. It was an amazing experience. \nThe most important lesson I will learn from this trip and from the Italian people is that stress will never resolve any difficult problem or save you from a challenging situation. Everything will work out in the end. If the results aren’t exactly what you expected, at least you’ve saved yourself from heart failure. Just close your eyes and run.