Have you ever wondered why we wear long, stuffy robes and square hats for graduation ceremonies?
Regalia is just another term for traditional or special clothing worn during ceremonies. When I think of regalia, I envision Mia Thermopolis in “The Princess Diaries 2: Royal Engagement,” holding the royal orb and scepter which are part of her coronation regalia. Regalia can be passed down or be a way to celebrate big life accomplishments.
Graduation regalia has a long history that made its way to the United States from Europe, defining the look and feel of graduations each year. Understanding the historical context for a garment many just accept they must wear preserves the value of graduation regalia —which is to celebrate the achievements of scholars around the world.
When universities were first formed in around the 12th century, students and professors wore academic regalia day to day. The long gowns were influenced by clerical clothing since many professors were clergymen, and some scholars would continue to the church. It is also believed that the length and addition of hoods was a way to stay warm in the cold monasteries and academic buildings. When I tried on my graduation gown in high school, I wondered why it felt absurdly long, especially having so much fabric on outside in the June heat.
Today’s academic regalia most are familiar with originate from England around the 14th century. The dress consisted of a cap, gown and hood. High-ranking individuals and graduates of higher degrees could line their hoods with silk or fur. Over time, it became a tradition for specific colors to represent an academic field of study. The official intercollegiate color list appears somewhat limited, with colors like drab, lilac, science gold and peacock blue repeating multiple times for degrees in similar fields. Majors have expanded in range dramatically since universities were first started, so it is somewhat disheartening to not see my major in the list and to wonder what color I would get. The narrow color options may be traditional, but I would be happy to see more variety to allow graduates of more niche degrees feel special too.
One of my favorite details is the differences between bachelor’s, master’s and doctoral gowns. According to the 1895 Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume, bachelor’s gowns were made from black, inexpensive fabric with long pointed sleeves. These gowns are worn closed because it was used to hide what graduates wore underneath that might indicate differences in wealth. American high schools use the bachelor style gown, but instead of black they are made in the school’s colors. One detail I am sad has been lost is the pleating around the yolk which I think is more visually appealing and draws the eye towards a graduate's face.
Master’s gowns were originally worn open and had an opening at the elbow of the sleeve where the wearer’s arm comes out. In 1960 this was changed so it would open at the wrist, with crescent-shaped cutouts down the whole front of the sleeve and the entire gown can be worn open. Sometimes the original design is still worn by those with a Master of Fine Arts.
My favorite of the three styles is the doctoral gown. These are still commonly made in the traditional black with black velvet facing down the front and three bars of velvet on each sleeve. The wide bell sleeves and longer hood add the necessary drama to distinguish doctoral gowns from others. It makes sense to have those at the highest degree level wear a more elaborate style, so they truly stand out in a crowd.
Like any other kind of school uniform, graduation regalia creates unity among graduates for the one time they are all gathered together. I am fascinated by the differences between the traditional dress for each collegiate degree and the ways that they have, or haven’t, changed over time.
