Ripe for the sipping

Move over, fat pumpkin. Apple cider is here.

September ushers in the cooler breezes and crackling bonfires of autumn, and after just a few weeks, leaves aren’t the only things changing.

After abysmal growing conditions this spring and summer, Indiana apple crops are failing. This makes the fruit and its versatility all the more special.

I have no problem finding pumpkin — I see you, latte lovers — which is usually a yearlong commodity. Let’s celebrate what’s truly rare this year and brew a batch of spiced apple cider, unmatched in its sweet and savory applications.

For a local sample of the season, head to the closest apple orchards, like Musgrave Orchard in Bloomington or the Apple Works Orchard in Trafalgar, Ind. Most grocery stores also carry jugs of apple cider.

For a quick glaze to drizzle over molasses cookies or liven up an unfortunate pumpkin loaf, whisk one part mulled cider and two parts powdered sugar.

Craving an earthy roast chicken? Marinate and baste the bird with your mulled cider, making sure to add lemon juice and season with two bay leaves, cracked black pepper and salt.

You’ll need comforting flavors to fold into those mashed potatoes and smear on doughy dinner rolls. Compound butter is a much-needed surprise in the colder months.

Soften two sticks of unsalted butter, combine with 1/8 to 1/4 cup cider and 1 tsp. ground nutmeg, then refrigerate to set. Tell me you can be this creative with a burly orange squash.

This fall, dare to do something different, whether for baked goods or soothing beverages.

Leave the pumpkins for the trick-or-treaters.

Mulled apple cider
1 gallon apple cider, or unsweetened apple juice
2 Tbsp. whole cloves
1 Tbsp. whole allspice
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 stick cinnamon
1 to 2 Tbsp. kosher salt
Combine in a large stockpot and boil for five minutes, then reduce to a simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve it strained and hot with a thin slice of lemon zest.

Note: For the over 21 crowd, add one or two shots of spiced rum to your mug.

If you’re short on time, you can pour the spice blend into a coffee filter and add apple cider to the reservoir of a coffee machine (adjusting measurements accordingly), then auto-brew away.