NEW YORK -- Fashion Week took a surprisingly laid-back turn compared to past seasons. Fashionistas from around the globe came to the tents at Bryant Park not overly dressed, but in jeans, pleated skirts and flip-flops. Designers such as Tomer and Nick Graham, creator of Joe Boxer, made bowler hats in for this season, as well as next season. Celebrity appearances have been sparse, but the shows went on.
A very cool Kenneth Cole
\nThe Kenneth Cole show is always the first show to usher in New York Fashion Week, but guests had a surprise because Cole put a twist on his usual classic style. Models came down the runway in cool shades of pale blue, smoke, white and metallic silver. The looks seemed to reach far-off places by the sea. The looks were very fluid and loose and reminded one more of a tropical getaway than a summer in the city.\nMen's looks were very casual and loose as they wore linen trouser shorts with flip-flops and sleek silver muscle shirts. They also wore earth-colored linen pants, paired with shirts of the same material and color, and loafers. \nGuest and actor Stanley Tucci appreciated the colors of the show. \n"It was gray, it was beautiful... the gray brown colors," said Tucci. "What about the blue-black seersucker suit ... I mean come on." \nJeans were worn low-slung and loose, paired with white belts and lightweight, pale blue sweaters. The look was modern with shipwrecked antiquity. Their female counterparts strutted in loose-fitting linen olive trouser shorts with earth-colored ruffled shirts, brown belts and loafers.\nThe collection emphasized the mid-section with fitted high-waisted skirts and high-waisted, wide-leg pants and trouser shorts. Splashes of saturated sky blue were also present in 1970s-style ruffled dresses and draped shirts. Cole mixed in dresses of corn yellow along with scarlet chiffon blouses. The show ended with a parade of crinkled chiffon dresses in lilac, scarlet, olive and topaz.
The official summer swimsuit
\nThough most of the shows at Fashion Week have been cool and laid-back, the Gottex show was hot, hot, hot. Curvaceous models came down the runway in colorful bathing suits that would make anyone miss the soon-to-be-over summer. Models strutted in braids and bikinis in shades of brown with ruffles and matching full-length skirts. Every second a show-stopper appeared on the runway in either a canary yellow bandeau bikini or a multi-colored bikini with a capelet and gold accents reminiscent of the exotic birds in the Mediterranean. The beaded bikinis and bandeaus were definitely inspired by the designer's homeland of Israel. \nDramatic suits in black and white with embroidered caftans that draped the body also stopped the show. The audience gasped as one model came down the runway in what seemed to be a plain one-piece black swimsuit, but then turned to reveal an intricate spiderweb design on her back.\nOne model also got a surprise when one of her breasts decided to make appearance on the runway. \n"I liked that the models have meat. When clothing requires curves, I like to see curves," said Ricky Lizalde, lingerie designer for Vera Wang.\nThe show ended with "Goldfinger," as one model, painted in gold, showed off a black bikini with 14-karat gold trim. One audience member couldn't help but shout out, "Work it, girl!"
Cool Esteban Cortazar
\nEsteban Cortazar, a designer known for his stylish yet wearable clothes, proved great minds think alike. His collection for spring 2006 included the same shades of white, blue, gray and silver as many of his designer peers.\nLooks included white suits that shimmered, long, flowing skirts made of linen and earth-colored trouser shorts. Broom skirts were draped with a rope-like material at the top and then flowed below the knee.\nMany of the looks were embellished with Swarovski crystals to add a sparkle to the simple designs. One model wore an iridescent purple silk taffeta blouse with Swarovski crystal embroidery and a full navy blue silk charmeuse skirt. Gold sparkle linen shorts and pants were also paired with light taupes in charmeuse and silk georgette.\nThe mood of the show kept in step with the tropical inspiration for spring 2006.
Sass & Bide
\nThe British-based designers went their own way with color and inspiration as they showed looks from the Sass & Bide line. Funky dresses made of black lace with coral underlays showed off the craftsmanship of the well-made clothing while keeping it young and fun.\nModels came down the runway in pirate hats and hats with wolf heads and horns on them. Boots were black and half-laced, worn with green lingerie-like dresses trimmed in cream lace. Dresses were loose and flowing, resembling antique lingerie. Jeans were faded and worn with white beaded blouses. \nFinola Hughes, host of "How Do I Look?" loved the show and could relate to its British influence. \n"I loved it. It captured the whole buccaneer look," Hughes said. "I grew up in London. The badges you find on old sailors' suits and the queen dress over black was indicative of a naughty maid."\nHeidi Middleton, designer for Sass & Bide, said she was inspired by the French tradition of lace and old things. \n"Écru on black lace showed off the craftsmanship," she said. "We love our contradiction. We are inspired by the old and by the past." \nSo if you want to be in for spring 2006, plan to get shipwrecked wearing linen and lace in shades of blue, black and white. This season, laid-back on the sand is where it's at.
