When in Rome...

Smelly, chaotic, noisy, beautiful and charming are only a few of the words that can be used to describe Rome; the eternal city is a mixture of old and new world, Catholicism and pagan gods. The bustle that is common to this metropolis was only intensified by the weekend I chose to visit: Easter. After navigating my way to the hotel -- no small feat in the labyrinthine streets -- I set out to see what there is to be seen. As it turns out, in Rome that means the entire city.\nRome has history built on top of history -- literally. Once the seat of the Roman Empire, the decrepit ancient relics intermingle with the opulence of the Vatican and whine of the omnipresent Vespa scooters. History lives here, but so do more than three million Italians going about their daily lives. Together it creates an interesting mix of hedonism and culture, tourists and locals. \nThe Colosseum, one of the best preserved gladiator arenas of the ancient world, is perhaps one of the biggest tourist draws to Rome. The majesty of the ruins is amazing, and the omnipresent tour guides like to point out the greatest irony of the Colosseum; though it was once the center for public executions and gladiator battles, it has become a symbol of the progress of humanity.\nSince I arrived Good Friday, the guides at the Colosseum suggested I return at night to witness the Via Crucius, a Roman tradition. Every year a crowd gathers at the base of the Palentino in front of the Colosseum to watch the Pope read the Stations of the Cross. I arrived early and was rewarded for my effort with a place near the front; when the Pope arrived I was a mere 100 feet away. The crowd grew as the ceremony progressed; by the time I left there were more than 100,000 people gathered.\nThe next day I reserved for the Holy City. The Vatican is the world's smallest sovereign state by square footage and is the richest country in the world. Housed inside the fortified walls of the Vatican Museum are the Baroque and Renaissance treasures of the art world. The frescoed walls and mosaic floors were completed by the masters of the art world: Michelangelo, Bernini and Raphael. The culmination of the Vatican Museum is the Sistine Chapel, the small chapel with the famous ceiling where papal elections take place.\nHowever, the glory of the Vatican lies beyond the walls of the museum. St. Peter's Square, with its imperial columns and graceful obelisk, lies in front of what was once the largest Catholic church in the world, St. Peter's Basilica. It was here I gathered Easter Sunday with others to listen to the Pope's address to the world, when he exhorts world leaders to search for peaceful ways to resolve their conflicts. \nI was in the eternal city for only three days, and I barely began to scratch the surface of all that is hidden in its alleys, piazzas and museums. But the chaotic mess of a city captured my heart. Just before I left, I threw my coin into the Trevi Fountain to ensure my return.