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(11/19/09 5:33am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERABAD, India - Picture an elderly woman in a highly polluted city creating a certain haven for workers and school children. This woman is Suraiya Hasan Bose. To say that I was impressed with this woman is an understatement. She is a testament to how much one person can do in a single lifespan and in old age, which doesn’t even show on her intelligent expression. After just a few minutes of speaking with her, I was dumbfounded by her repertoire: freedom fighting with Gandhi, reconstructing and influencing the traditional art of weaving, teaching underprivileged children. In addition to all of this, she tended a huge and lavish garden that seemed to connect all her enterprises.At first, I went to see her looms, which are some of the last in existence. Since a globalized economy continues to force weavers from their looms and customers into import stores, there are very few left who know the art of weaving. In fact, one of my professors informed me that the suicide rates among traditional weavers skyrocketed in recent years because very few people purchase their wares. Bose has begun to reintroduce weaving via the help of one of the last experts in the field and the very last expert about many lost patterns, Syed Omar. Together, they teach young widows a complex type of weaving called himru, which is local to India and being forgotten. In order to weave himru, one must have a jala, or graph, which is made through a series of strings tied to form the pattern. Every single thread must be hand woven to create the complex patterns these fabrics are known for.This type of weaving was impressive. I was in awe at how such a remarkable artform could die out. Bose then shared her hope that everyone would do their own weaving. It’s unrealistic now, she confessed, because modernization has taken over and there are very few who want to learn the complex art of weaving and making textiles locally. Then she recounted a time during the freedom struggle when she along with others had started a bonfire in her house to burn foreign textiles as a form of protest against the British. All the men involved were arrested. This type of protest is why she wanted local wares. She and Gandhi had shared this sentiment.With the same fervor she used in her fight for social justice, she now teaches underprivileged children so they have a chance for further education. She teaches them everything from English to manners to art in order to make them well-rounded individuals. To say the least, this woman is impressive. I, for one, am fascinated to know what one of the freedom fighters is doing today to continue to make an impact on an ever-changing India.
(11/11/09 5:22am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERABAD, India - I’ve never found it so difficult to dress myself in the morning than on the days I’ve worn a sari. Sometimes I wonder if it’s patriarchy at its finest that keeps women putting on these very beautiful but very complex dresses. It certainly takes away free time. The six meters of fabric have to be wrapped, folded and fanned in specific ways; pinned and tucked into a petticoat; and finally tossed over the shoulder of a bra-like blouse that resembles something like a genie’s belly shirt. No wonder people think women take a long time to get dressed. Thankfully, the final result looks fabulous.Despite the sari’s obvious aesthetic appeal, I have to wonder why women wear such a complex, restricting dress every day. While many urban young people wear a simpler salwar kameze, women over 40 from all walks of life can be seen wearing a sari daily. The doctors wear saris; the people in slums wear saris; women working construction wear saris; brides wear wedding saris. It’s almost a cultural uniform.But it’s the uniformity that is disconcerting. One of my professors was talking about saris and how, originally, every region of India had a different way of wrapping a sari. There was no uniformity in style that can be seen in the wrapped, fanned, rewrapped, over-the-shoulder protocol of the present. The only rule was that the sari fabric was not to be cut. In this way, wearing a sari was diverse, if widespread. Additionally, women did not have to wear blouses. Still, in some villages there are women who do not wear the sari blouse, either out of habit or tradition or personal comfort. I can understand this; most of the time I don’t want to wear the blouse either.But still, something changed. During the time of colonialism, the British largely looked down on the blouseless sari as being clothing for women with loose morals. This was a problem for Indian women because nearly everyone wore saris. This was also a problem for the British because they felt inclined to bring missionaries and moral structures that were often not culturally sensitive or understanding. Regardless, the sari blouse was soon introduced, and some women stopped wearing saris.However, around the time of independence, people moved away from enforced British thought in search of ideas that were intrinsically Indian. This forged a single national identity out of several regions that were previously removed from one another in style, dress, language and climate, among other things. At this time, the sari was reclaimed as being the clothing of the noble Indian woman, and the way to wrap a sari became uniform throughout India. As a result, now literally everyone and her mother wears a sari, excluding men of course. And while I don’t understand how they do it every day, there certainly is aesthetic appeal in this complex, colorful cultural uniform.
(11/04/09 4:51am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERABAD, India - In India, everyone knows what everyone else’s religion is. If it’s not apparent through dress, it’s blatantly obvious after learning someone’s name.Muslim men generally wear skull caps, and Muslim women generally wear head scarves.Hindu women tend to wear saris or salwar kameezes, which are a type of baggy pants with a kurta or long shirt. Buddhists tend to wear specific strings and robes. The bindi, or dot on the forehead, further marks Hindu women, and religious sect is often displayed by different forehead decorations, prayer beads and strings on wrists or waists. This extensive, blatant display of religion is perhaps initially inspiring because at a surface level, India is a relatively peaceful country with many different religions and religious sects living together in general harmony. But, then again, on a surface level, so is the United States, and while there is a level of acceptance in the country, intolerance issues of religion, class and race are still common. Like in the States, religious and caste minorities in India often wind up being the butt of societal jokes and racial slurs. In southern India, I’ve heard several racial jokes mainly against two groups: Sikhs from the north and local Muslims. At first, there is no racism apparent in everyday activities. However, when I really sat down to talk to people, I found intrinsic prejudice against these two groups. For example, people often recount the joke that Sikhs wear turbans because otherwise they’d lose their brains. People often scoff at the devout prayers of Muslims, and the last official Sikh holiday was ignored by most professors at Hyderabad Central University even though the university officially recognized it as time off.People say these religious tensions are in good fun and “just the way things are.” But sometimes these prejudices and religious misunderstandings turn into violence. I’ve been staying in Hyderabad, the city with the highest Muslim population in India. When I go into the Old City, it is difficult to believe that the entirety of India is not Muslim. I’ve found the Old City area of town to be vibrant, even though we are cautioned not to go there on Fridays because of the masses of praying people outside the mosque. Still, this predominately Muslim area has tension between different religions. In 2007 this tension turned to violence when the primary mosque in Hyderabad was bombed, killing seven and wounding 35. While this was perceived as terrorism, there was also uproar against law enforcement officers who did little to protect the people. The police cleared worshippers from the area with tear gas and batons, leaving people vulnerable both to bombs and the people whose job it is to protect them. While things have improved, sometimes religious tensions are still high, leading to the question of whether Hyderabad is permanently a peaceful city of tolerance or a center of mounting tensions.
(10/28/09 4:17am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>I had a tour guide in Hampi who thought everything was fabulous. She thought ruins were fabulous. She thought landscapes were fabulous. And she absolutely thought temples were fabulous. So I wasn’t surprised when she said, “Oh, and look at these fabulous carvings at the top of this temple.” But then she said, “There’s a fabulous one of a woman exposing herself.” This caught my attention. I knew many older temples have carvings from the “Kama Sutra,” but something like this seemed absurd, given the conservative nature of much of Hinduism. I looked closer and there was indeed a stone woman exposing herself at the top of the largest active temple in Hampi. The fact is that American culture will throw sex around as a subject until it comes to religion. Coming from a culture where immaculate conception is the only kind mentioned in churches makes for a shock when compared to India. This is likely because of the stark contrast between the conservative daily lives of much of India and the blatantly sexual designs in the older temples. For the first few months I was here, I noticed that South Indian culture is much more conservative on this subject than American culture. Films here tend to not have kissing, arranged marriages are prevalent and the only people I’ve seen holding hands have been groups comprised of a single gender. However, there’s a silent liberalism and even exposure of gender, sex and identity within India. Many Indian people have suggested to me that British colonization imposed Victorian morals, whereas traditional Indian culture allowed for more liberal takes on now-sensitive subjects such as sex, gender, dress and what people do with their bodies. While the temple carvings are interesting, the way the people talk about this sensitive subject invites inquiry into Indian history wherein the traditional seems to be more like what modern Americans are striving for: places for third gender, equality in sexual relations and greater education.That is to say that even though much of India seems conservative, there are specific pockets and systems in place to both protect individual rights and promote sexual education. For example, while it seems homosexuality has yet to be accepted within mainstream society, there is definitely a place for third gender within certain sects of Hinduism, which has traditionally protected homosexuality alongside third-gendered and intersex individuals. There are men, women and intersex individuals called “Hijras.” They are followers of Shiva who have devotion to their god in the same way women have been devoted to him in traditional Hindu teachings. Even though the Hijras are sometimes frowned upon by conservative members of society, there is a number of activist groups promoting protection for individual rights while encouraging a type of “Kama Sutra” rebirth and sexual revolution for the general society.All of the clashing beliefs in India make for seemingly infinite opinions about temple art, taboos and Tantra. I think the world gives India too much heat for being conservative and not enough credit for its more liberal aspects.
(10/21/09 3:16am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>The cracking noises have yet to stop.I thought I was prepared for Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, but people started letting fireworks off in the hallway leading up to Diwali and haven’t stopped since.As someone whose childhood creativity was often spent on homemade concoctions used for explosions in the woods, I enjoyed Diwali extensively. It looks like many Indian people did, too.People enjoy it too much, according to one of my professors. While most people respond to inquiries about Diwali with “festival time” or “the greatest holiday,” my professor took a different view. While he enjoyed Diwali and participated in all the activities, he said Diwali was dangerous in urban areas and not set up the way he’d prefer.In class, I mentioned that I would set off firecrackers at a Diwali celebration, and my professor said, “I imagine it’s different from where you’re from.” He then launched into an explanation about sociology and why people in India set off fireworks on the streets of major cities.Basically, India has a lot of people; urban areas are exceptionally crowded. That’s why, when nearly every person in a given location wants to set off multiple fireworks at a given time, there simply isn’t enough space. People set off fireworks on the main streets, on roofs and even inside buildings, making for a lot of smoke and a lot of litter.Blatant defiance of fire codes is on one level inspiring because of the celebratory atmosphere and on another level upsetting because of the obvious danger and environmental degradation. I spoke with one crowd of students who were sitting amid broken glass and used firecrackers, and I learned that the festivities make for dangerous environmental and celebratory situations. However, most people are increasingly aware of environmental protection. The environmental club is active on campus, organizing demonstrations and cleaning up student areas while they’re at it.While litter and holiday debris are still scattered everywhere, the presence of dust bins labeled “use me” deter litterers, and the street cleaners are having to sweep up less. Environmental awareness extends beyond Diwali to include other holidays as well. People are using environmentally sustainable statues of gods for other festivals, which prevents pollution of water sources.This increasing awareness echoes the pleas of environmental activists in the United States who question what huge fireworks displays and Independence Day recklessness do to the earth, air and water.Although it would be a mistake to abort such a lively holiday practice, which I personally enjoyed because of its freedom and possibility for improvisation, there may be room for some safety regulations and zoning enforcement in the future.
(10/14/09 4:30am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERADBAD, India - A few weeks ago, former president Clinton spoke about how it’s a mistake to give food aid only in times of national disaster rather than promote food production and self-reliance among impoverished regions as crisis prevention. This theme is common as organic farming and bio-diverse food production become more rare. In India, the people who fall below the poverty line need more than temporary solutions of soup kitchens, village pantries and homeless shelters. People need water purification, health care, education and transportation systems. Often, the basic infrastructures we take for granted in the U.S. are lacking in rural parts of India.A number of nonprofits have sprung up to combat these issues. Of the NGOs I’ve visited while in India, the Deccan Development Society is one of the most effective at what it does. The organization works primarily with dalit women, who are among the most impoverished people in India. Dalit is a term which refers to the previously titled “untouchable” caste within the now outlawed caste system. These women have previously been unable to care for and sustain themselves because of issues such as social stigma, abuse and illiteracy. The Deccan Development Society began by introducing autonomous food production. The women involved control seeds and storage in several localized food banks. The women’s control of the seeds is empowering because it grants autonomy from larger government systems. These localized seed banks support biodiversity which enables freedom from genetically modified, identical seeds that the government generally sells to localized farmers. Rather than selling these seeds, the women involved with the DDS are able to lend out seeds in return for more seeds after the harvest, thereby growing their food banks.In addition to food banks, the DDS created a green school for kids who had previously dropped out of school. It teaches both academics and skills such as pottery, sewing and herbal remedies. Spreading the knowledge of natural health care solutions allows students to take care of themselves and save money on doctor visits. The women involved also keep knowledge of health care, birthing methods and veterinary care in order to help people for free when possible.After creating this autonomy and control in food production and health care, the women involved in DDS have taken to spreading awareness about rural life and triumphing over poverty. They created an independent women’s radio station which is the first of its kind. Additionally, women have taken film classes and made all of the videos and advertisements for the DDS. One woman said that this enables them to show exactly what they want, because outsiders might misrepresent them. They wanted to be in control of what was being shown about them and their way of life. This is brilliant, although it did make me feel a bit guilty about writing the column, despite my good intentions.The DDS is all about giving power back to localized people. And I think this is a direction nonprofits across the globe should take. Rather than pitying the impoverished and giving handouts, we should ensure that all people are empowered with the ability to sustain themselves and live productive lifestyles.
(10/08/09 4:34am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERBAD, India - We all know floods can be detrimental. If there was ever any doubt, the flooding from Hurricane Katrina surely diminished it. In Andhra Pradesh, India, flooding is beginning to take over, and people are worried as the number of casualties approaches 300.I suppose it started months ago when I packed a rain jacket in response to the warnings that monsoon season in southern India meant there would be torrential downpours constantly. I arrived to sunny skies. “The rainy season is late,” newscasters reported. Crops were suffering where there wasn’t proper irrigation or sufficient water. The rice patties had gone dry. I was beginning to think that perhaps the monsoon had skipped India altogether. But just when it seemed the rains had moved elsewhere, fueled by whatever global warming trick-of-fate causes these weather phenomena, the rains began to come down hard. And then the puddles became lakes.According to local news, more than 2.5 million people have been left homeless from these floods and about 1,200 relief camps have opened. Numbers like this make me question certain local and global infrastructure designs. First, 2.5 million people is a huge number to be left homeless, even in one of the most heavily populated areas of the world. Second, that a flood can affect an area that experiences monsoon rains yearly makes me question city set up.While the Indian government has often taken a hands-off approach to local infrastructure, giving favor to smaller, localized government planning, it seems some flooding prevention might have been done. This is, of course, echoing many of the complaints heard in the United States after Katrina when we realized a routine reinforcement could have prevented much of the damage. For this flooding, could people in high risk areas have been relocated? Could the flood gates, which were just inches too short, have been built for greater capabilities? The fact of the matter is that the greatest damage often occurs in low-altitude, low-income areas.It’s clear who is affected the most by these types of natural disasters: the poor. When so many people are already living in low-altitude slums in India, it’s not surprising that their homes would be washed away by heavy rain and the persistent pressure of flooding. Slum homes generally follow a specific build. There is a wood skeleton with tarps or palm leaves wrapped generously around to make a large tent. Often, the homes do not have doors, and I’ve yet to see one with a floor. In short, they’re not much of a shelter at all. It’s no surprise that so many people are left homeless. Perhaps India should look into a more active approach to natural disaster prevention and slum aid, but this is not a problem unique to India. The dramatic effects of this flooding should serve as a wake-up call to countries around the world to proactively address disasters rather than waiting for emergency response aid.
(10/02/09 4:23am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>Last Friday, my yoga class came to an abrupt halt as my teacher entered with a picture of the goddess Durga, lit some incense, broke a coconut, threw some flowers and said a prayer. “This is the day evil was destroyed and good prevailed,” he said. Then he handed out coconut pieces, banana slices and a sweet. The class was oddly silent, but I leaned to the man on the mat next to mine and said, “Is that Durga?” He informed me that it was the time for Durga’s festival, called Dussehra. I went through the rest of the day as oblivious as I’d been before, but in the evening I was invited to a celebration. I didn’t really know what to expect, and only came to some understanding later. I walked into the party, which was outdoors on a lawn. There were people of every age dressed in elaborate, decorated clothing dancing a dandiya, which is performed with two sticks that hit another person’s sticks as the steps are performed.The dancing went on with or without the sticks to every type of music, from Bollywood to rock ’n’ roll. After some time, the music stopped, and in the same manner one might ask children to not touch fireworks on Independence Day, the hostess asked everyone to please back up from the demon.At this point my confusion peaked. I turned to the lady next to me. “Did she say back up from the demon?” The lady pointed toward what looked like a 10-headed scarecrow and told me the story of Ram and the demon Ravana wherein Ram destroys the demon Ravana, who grows a new head each time his throat is slit. “But I thought this holiday celebrated Durga,” I said. She explained that it does, but that it celebrated Ram too. Basically Dussehra celebrates good prevailing over evil – Durga and Ram destroying their respective demons.The story concluded. Then everyone began to chant: “Kill Ravana, kill Ravana, kill Ravana.” And just like that, someone lit the 10-headed figure on fire and everyone cheered. As a general rule, I enjoy holidays where things are set on fire: fireworks on Independence Day, jack-o’-lanterns on Halloween – I even like those trick birthday candles that never seem to go out. But this holiday is definitely a winner. There was dancing, singing and a fire show, complete with firecrackers afterward. In short, Dussehra is awesome.It’s also possible that I enjoy holidays that I start out completely misunderstanding. Starting a day with the assumption of normality can lead to enjoying it even more when suddenly everyone is celebrating, having parties and handing out sweets. I’ve decided that the best way to educate oneself about various religions, places and holidays is to participate and ask questions right about the time they start lighting things on fire.
(09/24/09 4:22am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>I’ve never really felt like a minority before. In fact, I’ve never thought much about minority status at all. In the U.S., pointing out differences among people is taboo. We don’t talk about race, religion, or gender in polite conversation. It seems that in India, differences are the first thing people’s attention jumps to. I don’t carry any of the religious or marital symbols that people wear here. I’m among few women seen in public. Also, I’m white. People in India aren’t white, my Hyderabadi acquaintances tell me.This blatant racial statement, although not completely untrue, shocked me at first. I’m used to the typical American colorblind culture that inspired movies like “Crash.”But walking down the street shows that differences are a focal point in Indian culture.First, they stare. This is one of the chief complaints among girls in my study abroad program. They don’t like men’s unabated stares as they’re walking, biking, grocery shopping, etc. Some say that the stereotype of western women being loose makes some of the staring overtly sexual. Sometimes this is the case, however staring generally seems to be harmless because it’s not considered rude in India the way it is in the U.S. Sometimes people will take their stare a step further and say hello. After saying hello, people will generally ask, “from which country?” To this I usually reply, “the U.S.” For every hour I venture away from campus, I’m asked this question at least 10 times. It’s true, I’ve counted. Some of the other students in my program have grown so tired of this question that they’ll pivot to retreat while calling backward “Russia! Canada! No where!”As if pointing out conspicuous nationalities was not enough, the next three questions that follow are always: are you married; when will you get married; and which religion are you. The first few times I was asked all these questions in quick secession I was taken aback. No one asks these things in the U.S. But in India, everyone displays these things through their dress. These questions once again remind me that I’m a minority.Often, my interviewer will exclaim over my religion, race or nationality and tell me that there’s no one like that in India. Not only am I one of the only white people in the city, I’m also among a minority of women. They exclaim further that I am not in the works for marriage, and what’s more shocking, that I don’t belong to any particular religion.While I’m not a fan of being stared at and constantly interviewed, I do appreciate the honesty with which people here acknowledge differences. After exclaiming that I’m a white girl from America with no gods, people generally look past that and continue to talk with me. In the U.S., these are the very differences that we attempt to ignore. Instead we first discuss inconsequential topics such as work, weather or hobbies. Only later do we ease into touchy subjects typically broached upon introductions in India. It’s impossible to blend in here.
(09/17/09 4:23am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>In the U.S. if I want to purchase something, I walk into the nearest Target, pick up the item, and then pay for it. I never thought I’d be one to haggle. But yesterday I found myself telling two men from Kashmir that I’d never spend more than $8 on a pashmina, but I would give them 400 rupees, teach them a secret hand shake, and call it a day just because I liked them. Haggling has become part of my lifestyle here in India.Later I was disappointed to find one of my friends bought a similar pashmina from the same two men for 300 rupees and no hand shake. Maybe I just look gullible.But in all seriousness, haggling has become so much a part of my daily routine that I’m not sure I could get along without it. The moment I get off campus, the haggling begins.First, in order to get somewhere, a person needs a shared auto or a tuk tuk, which is an auto rickshaw (a three-wheeled auto). If, like me, you’re paler than everyone else and you speak with an American accent, then the auto wallah will respond to your driving request with, “800 rupees.” To this you must respond, “800? Last time I got there for 600.” Then you must walk away. If the auto wallah comes back, he’ll likely say “OK, 600” To this you must respond: “600? That’s outrageous. I’m a student.” To this he’ll say, “400, that’s it.”To this you insist, “200 for all. That’s 50 each.”He’ll then either agree or drive away. If he drives away, the process must be repeated.People expect you to haggle, and often it can be fun. First, there’s the outrageously low offer and then the outrageously high asking price. The actual sale price lies somewhere in between.I’ve seen many shoppers with different techniques here. Popular modes of haggling include dramatic, sweeping hand gestures, the walk away, and the confusion method, wherein lower and lower offers are made for more and more items.Initially, the process of haggling can be exhausting. As an American, I’ve been used to set prices. Sure, sometimes a taxi driver will take a scenic route, but the meter is still present, ensuring the going rate. But in India, everyone charges different prices varying on the buyer and the situation. It was difficult at first because India is a country filled with both rich and poor people. Unfortunately, most people here view Americans as rich and, therefore, initially quote an outrageous price. Perhaps it’s true that many Americans can afford inflated prices, but as a student and a person who has been in India for a while, it’s easy to haggle simply for the principle of paying a fair price in order to avoid being had.
(09/10/09 4:41am)
____simple_html_dom__voku__html_wrapper____>HYDERABAD, India – As I bicycled to yoga last week, the usually quiet 5:45 a.m. crowd was blasting music and drowning out the call to prayer from a nearby mosque. When I asked what was going on, I was told the Ganesha festival. Everyone here knows about the Ganesha festival. It’s like Christmas as far as I can tell. People flock to pick out a Ganesha statue for their home and decorate it like a Christmas tree. This includes neon, elephant-headed statues everywhere with people singing prayers all day and night. Glowing lights line the streets in form of OMs, or swastikas. Every few blocks in the evening and in the morning there are people drumming and throwing fuchsia powders. Scratch that. It’s different from Christmas – it’s Christmas with dance parties. The festival is a once-a-year celebration of Ganesha, the elephant god in Hinduism. Ganesha is among the most beloved gods in Hinduism. The festival is huge.So, I decided to look around. Every year, when the festival is well underway, people take their decorated Ganesha statues and immerse them in water. It’s supposed to keep the life in the statue. Hyderabad has a huge lake at the center of the city, so hundreds, perhaps thousands, of Ganeshas are immersed in the lake every year. Environmentally speaking, a lot of people here are upset. I wandered around during the immersion times, seeing statues of all sizes thrown into the water. The statues range from two inches to 40 feet in height. As I saw the Ganeshas proceed to the water, huge throngs and music erased the sinking feeling that I once again had no idea what was happening. It was a party. All that festival jazz and there’s a rivalry to top it off. It was easy to miss the rivalry at first – the bright colors and crashing sounds of the festival overpowered the quiet of the Muslim community. Hyderabad has the largest Muslim population in India. There’s a split between Hindu and Muslim. The Ganesha festival coincides directly with the beginning of Ramadan, the month long fast in Islam when Muslims refuse food during the day but eat before a certain time in the morning and after a certain time at night. Ramadan also requires prayers at certain times of the day. In an area where tensions in recent history have been high between Hindus and Muslims, a not-so-subtle rivalry exists. Since I’m not directly involved, I like to live in ignorance and think this is the sort of friendly competition that inspired the Puck Furdue T-shirts. The rivalry works like this: When the Muslims are supposed to be praying, some Hindus often play loud Ganesha music and dance with loud drumming. And at night, Muslims gather to eat mutton in front of the largely vegetarian Hindu community. When I found this out, everything made sense. We’re all just rubbing on each other’s nerves. Instead of crazed shoppers yelling not to say ‘Happy Holidays’ or ‘Merry Christmas’, there are dance parties drowning out the 5 a.m. call to prayer.