Bierkultur

I remember when I was younger, I begged my parents to let me stay up late to be the first one to pick up the new Harry Potter book. I remember staying out past midnight in high school to tell my friends I was the first to see the new Batman movie. I know legions of fans lined up Thursday night to see “The Hunger Games.”

On Sunday night, I participated in a slightly different midnight release.

Bell’s Brewery, Inc., of Kalamazoo, Mich., organized midnight tapping releases of its sought-after summer seasonal, Oberon Ale. Many bars and brewpubs in Kalamazoo had big crowds, with a sprinkling across Indiana coordinating events as well.

Yogi’s Grill & Bar was the place to be for Bell’s fans in Bloomington, and you bet your ass I was there.

At about 11:30 p.m. Sunday in Indiana, bars aren’t usually the most packed of places. Slowly, however, craft beer-heads from around town started to trickle in.

Bartenders said they remember bigger crowds the year before and for the Bell’s Hopslam release a few months back, but by midnight, the bar was full of fans thirsty for Oberon.

The special OBERON 2012 glasses were lined up and frosty, and the keg had been tapped briefly to remove excess carbon dioxide. Free Bell’s merchandise, including Oberon shirts, stickers and temporary tattoos, were passed around the bar.

At 11:57, they began filling glasses. You could cut the tension in the air with a knife. At 11:59, they started distributing the glasses.

Usually, I wouldn’t be excited about an American-style wheat ale. I’m a die-hard when it comes to the wheat style; I only drink thick, unfiltered German-style hefeweizens.

In fact, Oberon is the only American-style wheat I can find palatable. (Sorry, Blue Moon. I’m real happy for you, but Oberon is the best American-style wheat ale of all time.)

It does exactly what Bell’s does well: create perfect impressions of time-honored styles. There’s nothing fancy about Bell’s — no self-assumption. Just a small line of brews with superior quality.

It is crisp and refreshing, with subtle citrus notes without having to dump fruit into the glass. (Yeah, I’m calling you out, everyone who puts orange slices in beer.)

Oberon comes in at 5.8 percent ABV, and it doesn’t need much more. It has a light golden color of an American wheat, but it makes up with cool flavor what others in the style lack.

It is the perfect boat beer. And, for the first time, Oberon will be served in 12-packs and mini-kegs, just right for a summer afternoon.

BELL’S BREWERY, INC., Oberon Ale — A crisp, refreshing, American-style wheat ale with light citrus notes. Four out of five pints.