The Secret to a well-dressed man

Men historically have received the short end of the stick when it comes to fashion in Bloomington. But now with stores like Urbanstylz, J.R. Stallsmith's and MetroWear, men can dress fashionably. Of course, the key to fashionable dress is knowing what to wear and how to wear it. Two of Bloomington's men's fashion retailers -- Branden Johnson, owner of MetroWear and an IU senior, and J.R. Stallsmith, owner of J.R. Stallsmith & Company -- can give residents insight on what's in now, what will be in soon and how to wear it. \n"Guys don't want clothes that shout, but they want something that sets them apart," said Johnson, whose store carries brands more familiar to the East and West coasts and larger cities, like French Connection United Kingdom, Buffalo Jeans, NYBASED, Report Collection, BB London and more.\nMuch of what's popular now will remain in upcoming seasons, with some modification. For example, casual blazers paired with jeans, T-shirts and urban comfort shoes remain popular.\n"It's a hot look in big cities like New York and Chicago," said Naomi Johnson co-owner of MetroWear and recent IU graduate. "It's a cool look for fall and spring."\nSpeaking of T-shirts, vintage T-shirts are becoming more popular. Brands like Paper Denim produce vintage T-shirts in limited runs to boost their appeal. MetroWear carries as few as four pieces of some garments. \nJohnson sells vintage T-shirts at prices ranging from $20 to $40. The more expensive T-shirts, like those from Paper Denim, are made with finer fabrics and have details like hand stitching, which justifies the price increase, Johnson said.\nJeans have begun a transition in design. Boot-cut styles are still popular, as are distressing and treatments. But tears and frays are on the way out, and so is muddy, dirty denim. Designers are shifting to a cleaner look without losing the nuances of recently developed weaves and treatments.\nMetroWear's jeans start around $78 and go to $185. From $78 to $110 are mid- to high-end jeans. Beyond that, brands start using more exotic elements, such as Japanese denim, along with hand stitching and distressing.\nIn addition, the spring season will bring with it color, more details, particularly vibrant solids and embroidery. Button-up shirts are styled with French cuffs. Details like cufflinks, and contrasting fabrics and stitching add dimension to the shirt. \n"Pink is still big in the Midwest, and a lot of stuff coming out this spring will have a lot of embroidery," Johnson said. \nMetroWear sells its button-up shirts from $55 to $120.\nTo accommodate the boom in men's grooming, MetroWear carries Anthony Logsitics and eShave. \n"I'm surprised, especially at shaving products," Johnson said. "It seems a lot of guys have trouble with shaving. We've given out samples, and guys come back the next day and buy the product."\nAnthony and eShave both place an emphasis on natural ingredients like cucumber, algae, witch hazel and St. John's Wort to improve health and appearance.\n"If you look online, you can't find these clothes any cheaper anywhere else" Johnson said about the lines he carries. "I think we're priced around Abercrombie and Fitch, maybe slightly higher (than their non-sale prices)," said Johnson.\nStores like MetroWear carry great clothes for either daily wear or hitting the clubs at night, but what about the professional world that so many IU students will soon enter? What's hot in men's suits?\n"Black has been selling well for the past five years," Stallsmith said.\nHe added that black suiting will continue to be popular in upcoming seasons. Spring will bring lighter colors and more weather-friendly fabrics like seersucker and linen, but the development of year-round fabric weights like tropical wool gives darker colors more staying power in warmer weather.\nBlack suiting works well both solid and striped, Stallsmith said. \nA three-button jacket works with most body types. The darker colors slim the body and create presence. Stallsmith recommended a two-button jacket for a guy with a belly or a barrel chest. Stallsmith pairs these jackets with pleated trousers, which allow for more comfort without sacrificing style. He can alter the pleat to a flat front, but the extra fabric brought with the pleat gives more room around the thigh, increasing the trousers' mobility. This emphasis in comfort is a key to men's fashion.\nStallsmith believes that as business casual slowly fades, the basics of men's suiting will make strong comebacks. Herringbone blazers, camelhair sport coats and Harrison tweed blazers are steadily coming back into men's wardrobes. To Stallsmith, it makes sense: An impressive wardrobe starts with the basics. A man with a handle on the basics will look sharp and be more successful incorporating seasonal changes into his wardrobe.\n"The most important basic is a white shirt. It goes with everything. It's classic. It says you're serious," he said. \nPairing a white shirt with a red or burgundy tie under a black suit is a sharp, classic look that's easy to wear. In addition, Stallsmith has noticed blue and lavender ties have increased in popularity as basic colors.\n"It's a fallacy to believe it doesn't matter what you (wear)," he said. "People who look great feel great."\nFor a first suit, Stallsmith recommends something around $495 to $695 for a high-quality suit that will last.\n"If you take care of your clothes right, you'll get years of wear," Stallsmith said. \nStallsmith's suits run from $595 to $1,195, which he described as a high-quality, mid-price point suit. Stallsmith also offers a package deal for students.\n"If you're buying from me, you're buying a jacket and trousers that match, alterations, expertise with the fitting and wearing of the garment, and attention to make sure it's the right purchase," he said.\nSuch attention comes in the form of trying different shirt and tie combinations to complement the suit or picking out accessories like belts and shoes. Stallsmith said a suit should make the wearer "feel like a million bucks."\nAt J.R. Stallsmith & Company, ties range from $49.50 to $98.50, shirts are priced at $75 and up, and shoes start at $145 for a pair of Cole Haans and increase with brands such as Donald J. Pliner. \nShoes, like a suit, will last years if the wearer takes proper care. Worn shoes from reputable makers like these can be sent back to the factory for reconditioning.\n"They come back as good as new for much less than buying a new pair of shoes," Stallsmith said.\nBeware of cheap suit deals advertised on television or around the mall.\n"If you're buying anything for under $400, for sure it's fused," he warned.\nBy fusing, Stallsmith refers to two layers of thin fabric pressed together with a bonding agent under heat. Over time, the bonding agent starts to breakdown, especially with dry cleaning. Bubbles form between the fabric layers. Pressing the suit can provide a quick fix, but the problem will only get worse.\nIn short, better suits last longer. Investing in higher quality suiting could mean saving much more later.\n"Any guy who is intimidated by men's fashion, bring in your girlfriend, your friend or someone you can trust so you feel more comfortable. We want people to be happy with their purchase," Johnson said.\nJ.R. Stallsmith & Company is located at 120 Fountain Square Mall on the southwest corner of Walnut Street and Kirkwood Avenue. MetroWear is located 234 N. Morton St.\n-- Contact staff writer Patrick Doolin at pdoolin@indiana.edu.