Designers present collections in Paris

PARIS -- Stars were in John Galliano's eyes for his Wednesday show of luxury, ready--to--wear fashions for Christian Dior-- but they were the Hollywood variety of ages past.\nSilent film glamour inspired Galliano's fall-winter collection, which featured vamp looks with huge standup fur collars, wrapped coats and women with cat eyes who recalled legendary star Jean Harlow. The feline theme associated with the Roaring Twenties so inspired Galliano that he put animal spots on fabulous organzas, satins and silks. The dresses, long or short, were draped and wrapped beautifully, with swishy flares and flounces at hems.\nWrapped gold brocade coats and slim wild-animal spotted dresses with multi-ruffles at the hems recalled the silent film set, like the gorgeous ice blue numbers that lit up the evening wear. The outfits with their straight torsos bore delicate sparkling embroideries or blue prints topped with large gray fox stoles. Some of the pale blue numbers had flesh-colored chiffon insets with delicate crystal decor.\nThe fantasy went on with plenty of handsome spotted prints, in themes from dark-on-yellow to raspberry, wrapped dresses and large mink collars dyed to match. Galliano worked the color palette from the blues through the reds and yellows to shocking pink and violet. There was plenty to choose from, and the opulent clothes looked slightly more wearable than some of Galliano's riotous haute couture collections.The new Dior bag will be one of the leopard-spotted and colorful models shown in leather or fur, with decor of nailheads and chains.\nAt the finale, Galliano, wearing a slick checked suit, trilby hat, sloppy red scarf, earring and a hint of a satisfied smile, skipped into a graceful bow.\nMarithe and Francois Girbaud had plenty of ideas to fill out their essentially sporty collection for men and women. The popular designing pair often tries to glamorize things, but somehow, even the dcollet short, lacy dresses still look made for a younger set that goes to informal parties.\nThere were many brown military looks, with handsome short canvas or cotton jackets. The hip belts, with little purses attached and jodhpur pants were styles one expected. Jean looks and plenty of stitching were right in the mood for this house. The various dressy outfits were not always successful. Pleated silk jackets or suede with elaborate lacy effects did not make much of a point, but dark silk coats and dcollet suits included some intriguing details, like feather-like embroideries waving with tiny pom-pon effects, resembling ostrich feathers.\nVivienne Westwood, the English original who has often given historical pastiche shows featuring numbers such as hoop skirts slit up the back to show lacy drawers, is currently into rock-and-roll revivals. It was all a bit busy, with patchwork layering and styles in a hippie vein harking back to Westwood's 70s heyday. Her show featured lots of jeans, busy casual looks, pants, full skirts and tops wrapped in a multitude of ribbons and fabrics of dark colors. This may be another Westwood look at kinky styles, but with the dotted Swiss wraps, the layered looks and bright colors, it at least has a cheery message -- if not particularly chic.