NEW YORK -- Collections for the fall 2004 season differed in style and designs making them special, but all had similar reoccurring themes. Lavenders and greens were the two hot colors of the runway, while fur, tweed and satin were most popular for fabrics. Although designers used some of the same cuts and fabrics, each designer personalized his or her line with familiar touches reflecting their style.
Bill Blass\nDespite the Indiana native's death last year, Bill Blass is as strong as ever with the talented Michael Vollbracht as his successor. Vollbracht created a collection following Blass's taste for fine apparel. Furs and satins were used frequently, and gatherings of fabric gave a suit an extra edge and a lot of extra attitude. Vollbracht said he was inspired by animal skins like cheetah, leopard and sable. Beautiful embroidery and beading made the nightwear sparkle. Models carried fur barrel bags and wore fur on their sleeves. \n"It was just amazing," IU apparel merchandising professor Deb Christiansen said about the show. "Now that's what a fashion show should be."\nIU fashion design student Jesse Deckard interned with the Blass collection and said the experience was invaluable.\n"I learned how things come together," Deckard said. "The experience was great. I was able to see how things come together and always change at the last minute."
Carolina Herrerra\nCarolina Herrera delivered a collection that met all expectations of her great style based on previous designs, yet still somehow wooed the crowd by creating something surprising and remarkable. With an impeccable sense of style, her line revealed the classic look of Herrera with fresh modifications. Her inspiration came from the European ski resorts, Gstaad and St. Mortiz. Luxurious chiffon layers glamorized each ensemble and were often paired with classy cashmeres. Simple satins gave a softer and sexier look and were even contrasted with fur. Navy was also among one of Herrera's favorite colors for the season. Like her latest women's perfume, Herrera is just simply chic.\n"The warmth of the apres-ski lodge mixed with 1930s winter sports at luxury resorts was really the inspiration for this collection," Herrera said after her show. \nWeightless silhouettes, velvet and gold provided a gorgeous look for evening wear that radiated such elegance it could only be by Herrera. Her must-have fall accessory is a cashmere scarf. \n"One should have one in every color," Herrera said.
Cynthia Steffe\nCynthia Steffe used the same color scheme as most of the designers for color/texture. An English schoolboy look was accomplished through full skirts with narrow vests, riding pants, shrunken topcoats and schoolboy shirts. Her styles can be classified as conservatively chic. Textured tweeds and cashmere sweaters were common in her more casual looks. The daytime attire usually consisted of a short waisted coat with a longer skirt. Velvet, lace and silk were used for evening wear and touches of leather trim were incorporated which updated her look. \n"I was inspired by fox hunting, the Moors, English schoolboys, tapestries and Freud's couch," Steffe said about her collection.
Tuleh\nThe Tuleh collection was as rich and luxurious as it was fun. Cocktail dresses and tweed coats dominated the fall 2004 line, as is usually the case with Tuleh. Silk and chiffon were used and paired with harder looks, different from how the fabrics are usually worn. Using black chiffon incorporated in a street style changed the common connotation of using light colored chiffon to soften looks and add femininity. \nAnimal prints were also a big part of this collection. Leopard was mixed with other intense patterns but did not clash in an unappealing way -- it actually worked out quite well. The dyed-fur look presented itself again but in a Tuleh-sort of way. Pink fur colors on leopard jackets and tweed coats livened up the line, making it eye catching.\n"I like the classic, fun, frivolous spirit of Tuleh," actress Ashley Judd said at the show. "But honestly, what cinched it for me is that my husband likes it so much."\nDifferent designers had different tastes, but all were able to use the same basic themes to produce fabulous collections. It is genius to accomplish such illuminating elegance with fresh and modern modifications. The season is about mixing it up, and that's just what these designers did. Mixing, matching and unexpected pairs led into the next era of fashion.\n-- Contact staff writer Mallory Zalkin at mzalkin@indiana.edu.
