Divino delivers delicacies

In Bloomington, where diners tend to be brave and receptive to new flavors, ethnic restaurants have a tremendous opportunity to showcase the cultural roots of their cuisine. But sometimes those restaurants lack courage, choosing to offer flatly American versions of their dishes.\nDivino, which recently replaced the short-lived L'Opera at 252 N. Walnut, boasts of an authentic Mediterranean menu. My companion and I looked forward to robust, clear flavors, with an emphasis on seafood and vegetables. What we discovered instead was an American menu disguised as ethnic cuisine that placed too much emphasis on beef and too little on seafood.\nStill willing to give this menu a try, we started with frittata espana ($4). The four pan-fried potato cakes, each about the size of a silver dollar, contained caramelized onions and grated parmesan and were served with balsamic and chive aioli (essentially, tartar sauce). Although the potato texture was superb, the dish lacked flavor.\nMy first attempt at an entrée was pollo estufada, a chicken breast stuffed with chevre cheese and spinach and served with red pepper coulis and garlic mashed potatoes ($16.50). \nThis dish taught me a lesson I must now pass on: chevre cheese has a very distinct smell which, if it catches you off guard, can spoil your appetite. While I did send this dish back to the kitchen, I blame my own ignorance in ordering. Our server and the manager were gracious and helpful as I selected another entrée.\nThe next attempt to order -- seared tuna -- was superb. The filet was juicy and flavorful, with just the right amount of spice. In addition, this dish earns high marks for presentation. It was garnished with bright peppers that enhanced the tuna's appeal.\nMy companion sampled the "angry pasta," a real bargain at only $5.50. A bite of this pasta in marinara sauce at first tasted sweet, but the sauce had an "angry" but pleasing bite that slowly sneaked up on the tongue. This dish is highly recommended to the diner looking for something unique and clever.\nFinally, we sampled two desserts, displayed appetizingly on a tray rather than on a menu. I chose the tiramisu cheesecake with caramel topping, while my companion sampled the "chocolate confusion." Both were excellent, although they were too rich to finish.\nWhile we did discover some redeeming gems on Divino's menu, the atmosphere of the restaurant is lacking. Mediterranean meals are family affairs - warm, friendly and energetic. But the atmosphere here, including minimalist décor and a high industrial ceiling, is neither welcoming nor warm. The only area of the restaurant that meets those expectations is the hallway just outside the bathroom, where a beamed ceiling covered in ivy and white lights creates an intimate atmosphere.\nUltimately, Divino seems difficult to classify. Bloomington already offers a plethora of excellent ethnic food choices, as well as a wide range of up-scale restaurants. In both categories, Divino earns only a mediocre ranking. But some of its dishes are worth a try, as long as diners have low expectations for the ethnic authenticity of the meal.