Column: My visit to a commune

Within the borough of Christianhavn in the city of Copenhagen is Christiania, a walled commune.

As you enter, a sign overhead reads, “You are now leaving the EU.”
Murals cover walls and signs greet visitors, listing the laws of the self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood.

People don’t dare to reach for their phones — photos are strictly prohibited.
There is not a single car in sight, just tourists blending in with locals wandering the narrow streets.

The atmosphere is calm. Bonfires continue to burn, people wander in and out of small, hole-in-the wall cafes, and it’s clear there is a sense of community here, complete with its own flag and currency.

The free town came to be in 1971 when locals climbed through fences guarding the site. They said they wanted a recreational area to serve as a playground for their children.

In the same year, a newspaper article advertised abandoned military buildings and announced the proclamation of the free town.

The newspaper succeeded in reaching the young population of Copenhagen during a time when there was a lack of affordable housing. In 2011, Christiania legally purchased the total area of 84 acres from the state, making the free town legal.

Since then, the free town has been a point of controversy causing conflict between the community and the state.

One of the main point of interest, which contributes to both Christiania’s popularity and controversy, is the thriving cannabis market.

Along Pusher Street, visitors can see rows of vendors selling different forms of marijuana.

While marijuana is strictly illegal in Denmark, it continues to be sold and used in Christiania.

Authorities are reluctant and the trade continues to cause controversy because some believe concentrating the trade has prevented it from dispersing through society. “Hard drugs” such as heroin are banned.

More than 900 people live in the free town today; they pay rent to the community and pay the state for water and electricity.

The town contains restaurants, small shops, a concert venue and even a couple art galleries.

It’s an unusual space, governed by its own common law. Even though police raids happen from time to time, Christiania continues to thrive.

Step inside and follow its rules. Once you step out under the arch that reads, “You are now entering the EU,” you’ve left the free town of Christiania.

In case you are curious, here are the nine rules that govern this community.

No weapons, no hard drugs, no violence, no private cars, no biker’s colors, no bulletproof clothing, no sale of fireworks, no use of thunder sticks and no stolen goods.

anukumar@indiana.edu
@AnuKumar23