Professor talks Somalian jewelry at museum

Associate Professor of Design Heather Marie Akou stood next to a case of Somalian jewelry, ready to present her speech.

She was wearing an African necklace made of silver and engraved with a flower design and dangling pieces.

Akou presented this week’s Noon Talk Wednesday at the IU Art Museum.

She described the region of Somalia and its use of jewelry as a class symbol.

Somalia is located on the eastern Horn of Africa, just across the sea from Yemen and Oman. Its location encouraged trade with the Arabian Peninsula, causing rapid economic growth in the region during the 1800s.

“Because of that economic boom, a lot of money started coming into that region,” Akou said.

Women accumulated their wealth through their own dowries, which, unlike in many countries, the women retained control of, Akou said.

Much of their dowry and wealth became tied to their intricate jewelry, made from bone, teeth, leather, stones, glass beads, coral, metals and amber.

“A lot of what they were using were trade goods, which made these pieces really spectacular,” Akou said. “Each group took these elements of jewelry and put them together in their own way.”

Some of the jewelry was religiously significant for the women as well, with specific add-ons meaning different things.
 
Jewelry from certain regions included hollow cylinders that would hold printed verses inside, protecting the individuals in certain times of life, Akou said.

The jewelry became a symbol for class status and wealth in the region depending on which materials the jewelry was created from.

Recently, Somalia experienced a severe drought in the region, and people needed money.

“When they needed money to support and keep their families alive, they would sell this expensive jewelry,” Akou said.

At the time of the drought, a group from the Foundation for Cross Cultural Understanding was in the region and approached by women trying to sell their jewelry.

The group bought some of the pieces and brought them back to the United States for educational purposes, Akou said.

Eventually, the collection was split between the Smithsonian, the University of Florida and the IU Art Museum.

Jewelry is still an important part of Somalian culture, but isn’t as publicly displayed because of the rise of Islam in the region.

“There are very wealthy trading Arab families that still have spectacular pieces,” Akou said.