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Wednesday, May 15
The Indiana Daily Student

arts

Fashion Week descends upon New York

NEW YORK CITY -- Fashionistas descended on New York City this past Wednesday for the Spring 2005 Olympus Fashion Week. This is the second year Olympus has hosted the event, and with it, they have brought many changes. \nThe week started off buzzing as Olympus along with coordinator Jacque Kelleher set aside room for the Olympus NCCRA auction press conference. Mayor Michael Bloomberg attended the conference. He warmly greeted visitors, thanking everyone for coming to Fashion Week.\nBloomberg then spoke about security concerns and the heightened Terror Alert because of the approach of 9-11's anniversary. He told the crowd that no one should worry. The mayor used the National Republican Convention as an example, saying everyone thought it was going to be like the 1968 Democratic National Convention in Chicago with riots and chaos plaguing downtown. He pointed out how this year's convention had been a success. \nThere are many events happening in New York City this week, including the U.S. Open and the third anniversary of 9-11. These affairs, along with Fashion Week, have attracted many journalists to the tents at Bryant Park. The tents were full as journalists waited to receive their Kipling gift bag full of free items from Olympus. Photographers were also allowed to check out the new Olympus E-1 SLR camera as a part of Olympus' royal treatment given to journalists and photographers. Journalists also received free manicures and bags from Woman's Entertainment Network as they waited for the shows to begin.

The kenneth cole Show

Kenneth Cole started off Fashion Week on a more political note. As guests took their seats, a movie was shown on a screen. Cole, known for always making a political statement, showed viewers clips from the Republican National Convention. Footage included shots of eccentrics dressed up in flower hats and political attire. The purpose of the movie was to raise awareness about democracy and voting.\nThe crowd received a lesson on voting with educational statements popping on the screen such as "50 percent of voters made an impact in 2000. They didn't vote," "78 percent of Americans can name a super model, but 48 percent can name a vice president correctly," and "November second is not a dress rehearsal." \nRaymond Pepitane of Intergraphics Litho Corp., an invitation production company for designers, said Cole stuck to his usual routine.\n"Kenneth Cole always has an agenda. During the year 9-11 happened it was anti-violence," he said.\nA designer known for his simple sophistication, Cole kept it cool for Spring 2005. His color palette consisted of indigo, white, tangerine, butternut, slate, seafoam and squash.\nHis looks consisted of all white suits and white trousers paired with a long-sleeved v-neck tangerine shirt for men. The male models came down the runway in peacoats in colors of white, indigo and butternut with matching cardigans and flat front trousers. The look for men was low-key and sophisticated paired with accessories like brown leather loafers, brown leather belts, huge white beach sunglasses and mailbags in cognoc and canvas, which tied the look together.\nThe women wore white and indigo motor pants with ribbed tan tees, butternut cardigans and motor jackets. Many of the women wore pencil skirts in colors of seafoam, stone and slate. Other skirts were knee-length and either panel or pleated in white, indigo and tangerine. Many of the models wore oversized beach glasses and fish bone, lace-up heels.

The Tracy Reese Show

Tracy Reese showed her collection to a packed house Wednesday afternoon. She stuck with her usual style of feminine elegance in saturated colors of pink, peach, green and blue. Models strutted down the runway to classical music wearing pouf skirts made of crepe de chine and chiffon. Many of the cocktail dresses were colorful in prints containing peacock feathers and plants.\n"I was inspired by nature and everything natural," Reese said. "Birds, tress, butterflies."\nThe pants were embroidered and cropped, a trend seen on many runways, paired with cardigans in shades of pink, fuschia and green. The clothes sparkled on the runway as models wore flounce skirts made of chiffon with garden jackets and jacquard clutch coats. This season, patterns and texture were a big part of the show along with the over-the-top diamond accessories by Lockes Diamantaires. Reese attributed her recent rise in popularity to her appearance on "Oprah."\n"'Oprah' definitely gave us a leg up. I have gotten a lot of support since her show," Reese said.

The Jeffrey Chow Show

"Great minds think alike" is a phrase many can say about the fashion shows at Bryant Park this season. Along the same lines as Reese and other designers, Chow's sparkling feminine-inspired line wooed audience members Thursday.\nHis line consisted of ruby-patterned coats embellished with Swarovski crystals on the collar and sleeve, organza-embroidered bowler jackets and row silk trousers in ivory and cerulean. The line was inspired by Africa and African embroidery. Models strutted in jade crepe satin bubble-tops with a side-tie, hyacinth crepe satin patchwork camisole using a lace detail and a white cotton eyelet A-line skirt. \nA more tribal-inspired look consisted of an ivory raw silk "masai" embroidered strapless dress with a "masai" collar and the trim on top of the dress that matched the collar. There was a geranium raw silk belt jacket along with a pole coral cotton lame tweed coat. A black-and-white paisley print silk chiffon dress decorated with Swarovski crystals caught every eye as they shimmered on the runway. Also included in the show were bubble dresses and blouses with Swarovski crystal buttons.

The Bill Blass Show

Michael Vollbracht never disappoints an audience and he lived up to that reputation Thursday. He showed his collection to a packed house that included Kate Rowold, a fashion design professor at IU and loyal Bill Blass fan.\nShe pointed out some of her favorite looks on the runway, such as a lime silk satin olance with re-embroidered lace bra bodice, a lavender tulle petticoat, and a white dry silk crepe tee-shirt dress with sheer short-rolled sleeves and a bow around the waist. The palette for the collection consisted of cool colors, such as pale yellow, ice blue, white, mint, lavender, gold and pink. There were not as many pants or pant suits as in past shows, but there were plenty of party dresses. There was a black silk ottoman cap-sleeved dress with bra bodice, hip yoke and full skirt, a chestnut chiffon halter dress with a multi-colored balloon chiffon circle skirt, and a light blue silk cap-sleeve dress with a yellow eyelash taffeta overskirt.\n"I was inspired by pretty girls," Vollbracht said.\nKarolina Kurkova, a model at the Bill Blass show, said she loved the white cotton sleeveless A-line dress she wore.\n"I love the clothes. I love the gowns. It was very old Hollywood, very red carpet," she said.\nVollbracht, who made a success out of his multi-colored silk chiffon dress a year ago, ended his show with two new silk chiffon dresses. His inspiration for the dress came from an unusual place.\n"I love chiffon," he said. "I always wonder what chiffon feels like between your legs."

As always, each designer stands out when trends for the upcoming spring can be spotted on the runways. This year, green, pink and lavender were seen on many runways. Decorative coats, cropped pants and short jackets are very popular paired with cardigans. Surprisingly, the most common trend is diamond, crystals or anything that sparkles paired with feminine fluidity.\n-- Contact arts editor Patrice Worthy at pworthy@indiana.edu .

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