Coconut milk provides new flavor to ordinary food

In the way from Indiana to my California home, my carry-on luggage was not noteworthy : an extra sweater, a good mystery book, a snack. \nBy contrast, the California to Indiana leg of the journey is all luggage, all the time. Obsessed with bringing back cooking staples from assorted local grocery stores, I resemble a packmule headed to an isolated mountain outpost. \n"Are there no food stores in Indiana?" my brother typically sighs as he helps my father heave 50 pounds worth of "staples" into the trunk. Yes, but how can I resist filling my Indiana cupboard with all of the comforts of my western home? \nSo when I toddled through the airport with a case of coconut milk a few trips ago, I acknowledged my folly but sallied forth, regardless. Like clockwork, the metal detector inspectors pulled me aside to inspect my case of cans. \n"Coconut milk, eh?" the guard leered with a crooked, yellowing grin. "Somebody sure loves the pina coladas, heh-heh." I waited for him to zip my bag shut, mumbled "yeah, party on," and waddled away with as much dignity as I could muster. \nI erred in hauling a case of coconut milk from California to Indiana; the same brand is available at every major supermarket in town. But I was right to load up on the celestial stuff. Pina coladas were not on my agenda (they are made with sweetened coconut cream, anyway, not unsweetened coconut milk). Quick and simple ethnic cuisine was and is my aim with coconut milk purchases. If your taste buds are likewise enlivened with the kaleidoscopic flavors of Thai, Vietnamese or Latin American cooking, you might consider stowing a can or two of coconut milk in your own cupboard. \nCoconut milk might sound too exotic to be a staple. Not so. If your eating experiences have been even mildly adventurous, you have likely sampled coconut milk in multiple preparations. Think back to your last visit to a Thai restaurant. More than likely, coconut milk was a key ingredient. The silky taste and texture offers a premium setting to full flavors and strong spices such as curry, ginger and chilis. \nCoconut milk is made by combining grated coconut meat with boiling water. The mixture is then strained to release as much of the liquid from the meat as possible. The result is a creamy milk-like product as typical to Southeast Asian and Latin American cooking as broth, milk and cream are to Western dishes. Because coconut milk can separate at high temperatures, add it at the end of the cooking time, off the heat. Once opened, you can refrigerate it (in a separate container) for three to four days, or freeze it. \nYou will find coconut milk in one of two locations in supermarkets: the ethnic/international foods section or alongside powdered and canned milks. Many Asian markets sell it, too. The prices range from 69 cents to $1.89. Any brand is fine, but your best bets are brands without added preservatives. Two of the leading national brands also produce "light" coconut milk. This can be used in place of regular coconut milk with the bonus of marginal fat and minimal calories. The light varieties lack some of the richness of regular coconut milk, but do not lack flavor. Here are some fast ways to use coconut milk. Do not be surprised by the "fast food" options. Even serious cooks take shortcuts. Before the kitchen door swings shut, they might have done some things -- or used some ingredients -- that they will never tell you about. \nSWEET-TART SAUCE: \nUse with vegetables (e.g., steamed or stir-fried, fresh or frozen carrots, broccoli, green beans, eggplant, etc.), fish, firm tofu or boneless chicken breast. In saucepan, combine 1 cup vegetable or chicken broth with 2 tablespoons favorite chutney; reduce to about 1/2 cup. Dissolve 1 tablespoon cornstarch in small amount of cold stock and add to boiling mixture. Stir just until thickened. Remove from heat, stir in 1/4 cup coconut milk. Add soy sauce to taste. \nFAST FOOD THAI-STYLE CHICKEN OR VEGETABLE SOUP: \nIn a saucepan, boil a 19-ounce can of chicken soup (preferably with rice or pasta), 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, pinch of sugar, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, 1/8 teaspoon each grated ginger and chili paste (or curry powder). Remove from heat, stir in 1/4 cup coconut milk. Serves one as an entree or two as a soup course. \nEAST MEETS MIDWEST SPICY SHRIMP/TOFU/CHICKEN & NOODLES: \nIn a large pot of slated water, boil 8 ounces linguine or spaghetti. Cook according to package directions. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat, simmer 1/2 pound either cleaned, shelled shrimp or diced uncooked chicken breasts or diced firm tofu in 1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth for 6-7 minutes. (Shrimp and chicken will be just cooked through.) Drain pasta and add to pot along with 1 cup chunky salsa, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon ground ginger and 1 teaspoon curry paste or powder. Cook two minutes longer. Add a cup of coconut milk and season with salt and pepper to taste. Optional: sprinkle with fresh cilantro leaves or sliced green onions. \nSPICED MANGO BEEF: 1 pound lean ground beef 1 medium onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 jalapeno pepper, finely chopped 1 teaspoon EACH cinnamon, ground cumin and chili powder \n1 16-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained 2 ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks \n1/3 cup canned coconut milk \nCook and stir beef, onion and garlic in large skillet set over medium heat until beef is light brown; drain off extra fat. Stir in jalapeno, spices, tomatoes and mango. Heat to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Stir in coconut and heat 3-4 minutes longer. Serve (optional: serve over hot cooked rice and sprinkle with sliced green onions or cilantro). Makes 4 servings.