Not long ago, in a graduate student lounge, the conversation turned to the subject of sweet potatoes. It was a warm autumn afternoon and we were eating a collective lunch of pretzels, yogurt, microwaved entrees and leftover Halloween candy. The conversation began as a series of pleasant reminiscences. As it evolved, it turned ugly, a squabble over the penultimate preparation method of the venerable vegetable.\n"A casserole is the only way, loaded with brown sugar and layered with pecans," one person insisted. "No, no, no, sauteed in butter with a lots of maple syrup," another demanded. "Marshmallows, lots of marshmallows," others sighed. Several purists recoiled, asserting that no true aficionado would pollute their potatoes, hence baked is best. A Halloween candy-induced sugar high finally quelled our bickering, allowing us to agree to disagree. Perhaps people should make whatever sweet potato recipe fate calls out to them to make, we decided.\nAnd sweet potatoes are exactly what you should make now that it's nippy outside. Sweet potatoes are soul-satisfying as well as body-nourishing (they are loaded with beta carotene, vitamin C and fiber) and require nothing more of the home chef than turning on the oven and administering a few fork-pokes.\nTo bake a sweet potato, preheat your oven to 425 degrees. Gently scrub any dirt off the skin of the potato, poke several times with a fork, then place on a foil-lined baking sheet, pan or dish. In an hour, you will have a tender treasure, lightly caramelized in its own syrup. A faster alternative, but a bit more work, is mashed sweet potatoes. Simply peel sweet potatoes, cut into large pieces and boil in water. When tender, drain and mash the sweet potatoes with butter, milk and a dash of ground ginger. If you are lucky enough to have some real maple syrup, add a tablespoon or two. Sweet potatoes prepared this way are irresistible.\nFor the experimental, especially those looking for a less sweet option for their sweet potatoes, I recommend a really easy recipe of sweet potatoes and black bean chili. My first encounter with this combination was at the Good Earth restaurant on the west side of the University of California at Berkeley campus. I ordered the "soup" of the day and was treated to one of the most delicious concoctions my teenaged palate ever encountered: a sumptuous, spicy chili, thick with black beans, vegetables and the surprise addition of diced sweet potatoes. I ordered a second bowl before I finished the first.\nMy rendition takes the sweet potato out of the chili and puts it underneath, a contrasting bed to a blanket of zesty chili. It takes about an hour to cook, but it is untended cooking time that can be used for other activities such as flinging oneself on the sofa. The black bean chili is idiot-proof -- open a few cans, give a quick stir, and let simmer while you curl up and relish the cozy scents emanating from the kitchen. The sweet potato and jalapeno pepper-sparked chili combination is certain to please you after a long weekday.\nMy skillet pork dish with sweet potatoes and apples has the same effect. Simmering the pork chops in apple cider renders them fork-tender, rich with flavor while slim on fat and calories. An added charm is the inviting aroma of cinnamon and cloves, precursors to the soon-to-come winter wonderland of heartwarming dishes. One bite of the trinity of pork, sweet potatoes and apples and you know this is real food, a much-needed reprieve from microwave meals, drive-through dinners and vending machine snacks.
SPICY, SUPER-EASY BLACK BEAN CHILI-TOPPED SWEET POTATOES
4 large sweet potatoes\n1 6.5-ounce can roasted red bell peppers, drained, chopped\n1 14.5-16 ounce can ready cut peeled tomatoes, undrained\n1 15-16 ounce can black beans, rinsed thoroughly and drained\n1 cup drained canned corn\n2 teaspoons ground cumin\n2 teaspoons chili powder\n1 teaspoon minced jalapeno chili (optional)\nJuice from one lime\n1 8-ounce container light sour cream or plain yogurt\nChopped fresh cilantro (optional)
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place sweet potatoes in baking dish lined with foil. Pierce each potato several times with a fork and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, combine roasted peppers, tomatoes, black beans, corn, cumin, chili powder and jalapeno in a medium saucepan set over medium heat; bring mixture to a simmer. Reduce heat and cook 20 minutes longer until flavors combine and chili thickens; season with salt and pepper to taste. Place sweet potatoes on dinner plates; slice open lengthwise, squeeze with lime juice, top with black bean chili, dollop with light sour cream and sprinkle with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.
STOVETOP-SIMMERED PORK CHOPS, SWEET POTATOES AND APPLES
4 lean pork chops, trimmed of excess fat\n1 garlic clove, halved\n1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\nLarge pinch of cloves\n1 cup apple cider or juice\n1 large sweet potato, peeled and sliced\n2 tart apples, cored and sliced\n1 tablespoon cornstarch\n1/4 cup water\n1 tablespoon cider vinegar
Rub both sides of pork chops with the garlic and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spray a large skillet with nonstick spray and heat over medium-high heat. Add chops and brown on both sides. Add the cinnamon, cloves, apple cider, sweet potatoes and 1/2 a teaspoon of salt to the skillet. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Uncover skillet and add apples; simmer 5 minutes more. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pork, potatoes and apples to a dish; cover with foil to keep warm. In a small bowl, blend the cornstarch with the water and vinegar. Add the cornstarch mixture to the skillet and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes until thickened. Serve sauce with the pork potatoes and apples. Makes 4 servings.
